Tuesday, January 31, 2017

Posted by Unknown |

The prints you get back from the local photo printer may put a smile on the face of grandma or grandpa but would be unsuitable for hanging in a gallery, and not necessarily because of the artistic merits of the photograph but because of how the photograph was printed. Art galleries, collectors and museums require photographic prints to be archival quality, meaning they will last for many years without fading or deteriorating.

What is meant by archival?

    An archival-quality print is one that will retain its true colors after years of exposure to light. The dyes used to print a photograph on paper react with light, humidity and pollutants in the air, and over time these elements can fade or stain the dyes. Different dyes and papers react differently and are capable of retaining an acceptable appearance for longer periods of time. However, there is no standard test for calling a print archival, with only a consensus that prints guaranteed to last over one hundred years without fading can generally be called archival.

Before digital prints

    Before digital photography and digital printing appeared on the scene, there was little concern over labeling a print archival. Traditional photographic printing and the subsequent labeling of the print was enough to satisfy the art dealer or museum curator. Labels such as "platinum print" included the method of production in the name and assured collectors of the permanence of the print. This partly had to do with the fact there are a limited number of photographic papers, using a limited number of materials, available with manufacturers' guarantees of permanence based on testing by the manufacturer.

The digital print

    Digital prints suffer from having too many variables in the production process. There is a wide range of papers and inks to choose from with each varying in permanence and archival qualities. Because of these variables, it has become necessary to label digital prints as archival to assure any art dealer or collector that the paper and ink used to print the photograph will last many years without fading.

Archival quality papers and inks

    Manufacturers of photographic papers and inks often state on the packaging what the typical lifespan is expected under normal viewing and storage conditions. If the information is not included with the packaging, most manufacturers list this information on their website. As there are no clearly defined expectations for the lifespan of a photographic print to be considered archival, it is left to the individual photographer to determine whether the papers and inks used can be called archival. Most photographers, as well as art collectors, consider one hundred years to be the minimum standard for calling paper or ink archival.


The prints you get back from the local photo printer may put a smile on the face of grandma or grandpa but would be unsuitable for hanging in a gallery, and not necessarily because of the artistic merits of the photograph but because of how the photograph was printed. Art galleries, collectors and museums require photographic prints to be archival quality, meaning they will last for many years without fading or deteriorating.

What is meant by archival?

    An archival-quality print is one that will retain its true colors after years of exposure to light. The dyes used to print a photograph on paper react with light, humidity and pollutants in the air, and over time these elements can fade or stain the dyes. Different dyes and papers react differently and are capable of retaining an acceptable appearance for longer periods of time. However, there is no standard test for calling a print archival, with only a consensus that prints guaranteed to last over one hundred years without fading can generally be called archival.

Before digital prints

    Before digital photography and digital printing appeared on the scene, there was little concern over labeling a print archival. Traditional photographic printing and the subsequent labeling of the print was enough to satisfy the art dealer or museum curator. Labels such as "platinum print" included the method of production in the name and assured collectors of the permanence of the print. This partly had to do with the fact there are a limited number of photographic papers, using a limited number of materials, available with manufacturers' guarantees of permanence based on testing by the manufacturer.

The digital print

    Digital prints suffer from having too many variables in the production process. There is a wide range of papers and inks to choose from with each varying in permanence and archival qualities. Because of these variables, it has become necessary to label digital prints as archival to assure any art dealer or collector that the paper and ink used to print the photograph will last many years without fading.

Archival quality papers and inks

    Manufacturers of photographic papers and inks often state on the packaging what the typical lifespan is expected under normal viewing and storage conditions. If the information is not included with the packaging, most manufacturers list this information on their website. As there are no clearly defined expectations for the lifespan of a photographic print to be considered archival, it is left to the individual photographer to determine whether the papers and inks used can be called archival. Most photographers, as well as art collectors, consider one hundred years to be the minimum standard for calling paper or ink archival.



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Posted by Unknown |
How to Create a Portfolio as a Fashion Photographer

A fashion photographer takes high quality and high resolution images of clothes, accessories and models for magazines, designers and fashion houses. A portfolio is basically just a collection of the photographer's best work. It can either be an online portfolio in the form of a website that people can visit and view, or it can be prints of the images placed in a folder. No matter what form it's in, the portfolio must showcase the photographer's skill and versatility.

Instructions

    1

    Have photographs to put into your portfolio. If you are just starting out as a fashion photographer, it will take time to build a portfolio. Every time you shoot fashion photos for a publication or designer, you will have pictures to put into your portfolio. Over time you will have plenty of different types of images to show.

    2

    Pick and choose the best images to include in your portfolio. After every photo shoot, choose one or two photos that truly stand out and showcase your talent. If any photos happen to be published, definitely include those in your portfolio. Published photos show that your work has been acknowledged in the media.

    3

    Create an online portfolio. You may have to hire a web designer to give your site a polished and professional look. Upload your best images online and give out the web address so that people can view your portfolio just by going on the Internet.

    4

    Organize your fashion photos into a folder. Buy a discreet three-ring folder and laminated sheets. Put your best fashion photos into the plastic sheets so that they don't get damaged in any way. The sheets should also be hole-punched. This way your photos will be organized, and be able to be viewed by many people without being torn or soiled.

    5

    Organize your fashion photos into a photo album that can hold large 8 x 11 prints, as an alternative to a folder.


How to Create a Portfolio as a Fashion Photographer

A fashion photographer takes high quality and high resolution images of clothes, accessories and models for magazines, designers and fashion houses. A portfolio is basically just a collection of the photographer's best work. It can either be an online portfolio in the form of a website that people can visit and view, or it can be prints of the images placed in a folder. No matter what form it's in, the portfolio must showcase the photographer's skill and versatility.

Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

.

Instructions

    1

    Have photographs to put into your portfolio. If you are just starting out as a fashion photographer, it will take time to build a portfolio. Every time you shoot fashion photos for a publication or designer, you will have pictures to put into your portfolio. Over time you will have plenty of different types of images to show.

    2

    Pick and choose the best images to include in your portfolio. After every photo shoot, choose one or two photos that truly stand out and showcase your talent. If any photos happen to be published, definitely include those in your portfolio. Published photos show that your work has been acknowledged in the media.

    3

    Create an online portfolio. You may have to hire a web designer to give your site a polished and professional look. Upload your best images online and give out the web address so that people can view your portfolio just by going on the Internet.

    4

    Organize your fashion photos into a folder. Buy a discreet three-ring folder and laminated sheets. Put your best fashion photos into the plastic sheets so that they don't get damaged in any way. The sheets should also be hole-punched. This way your photos will be organized, and be able to be viewed by many people without being torn or soiled.

    5

    Organize your fashion photos into a photo album that can hold large 8 x 11 prints, as an alternative to a folder.



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Posted by Unknown |
Photography Techniques for Surreal Scenes

Surreal photography is a particular challenge. The photographer appears to capture real images of impossible realms. It takes particular creativity to achieve this type of effect. You can use any of several different techniques to create a surreal photo. Some involve taking the photographs, and some involve darkroom or digital manipulation.

Making a Composite

    One technique for creating a surreal photograph is compositing opposing or disparate elements. Surrealism creates a clash of ideas like those experienced in dreams. Real-world logic goes out the window in surrealism and things are never seen together are found in the same place. Most high-end image-editing software programs like Adobe Photoshop have tools that let you isolate visual elements and place them in different images. Create intricate and dramatic surreal photographs with this technique.

Long Shutter Speeds

    The shutter speed on a camera is excellent tool for creating surreal scenes. Normal shutter speeds last less than a second. A very fast shutter speed can "freeze" action like falling water. Long shutter speeds, those over a second, do the opposite. Long shutter speeds blur motion and can create a dreamlike effect for things like water. Have a subject stand completely still while activity occurs all around them during a long shutter exposure. This will blur the background and leave the subject isolated.

Play With Perspective

    One striking visual characteristic of a dream is the way that things may not be quite the correct size. Evoke the strange imagery of the unconscious by giving the subject an everyday object that is several orders of magnitude larger than it should be, like a gigantic pencil. Additionally, using an object which is only slightly too large or too small is a great way to create cognitive dissonance. Changing the size of a room (i.e. making it too large or too small) is a great way to create tension in a photograph as well.

Be Unexpected

    Create surreal tension in a tableau by forcing things which are unrelated, but not opposite, into the same scene. For example, using fire and ice is not surreal, but conventionally opposite. Use things that are unrelated, like fire and computers or ice and pillows. Things that are tangentially related or related in abstruse ways are much better for evoking the feeling of a dream than simply choosing opposites.

Use Innovative Techniques

    Using techniques like infrared photography to create unexpected images. By blocking the visible light getting to the sensor of your camera, you expose an unseen world. Because infrared light has longer wavelengths, and therefore carries less energy at any given point in time, these photos also require longer shutter speeds to create an image. The effect tends to be spooky. Use a tripod when attempting to take infrared photos. Purchase inexpensive "IR" filters from a photography supply store.


Photography Techniques for Surreal Scenes

Surreal photography is a particular challenge. The photographer appears to capture real images of impossible realms. It takes particular creativity to achieve this type of effect. You can use any of several different techniques to create a surreal photo. Some involve taking the photographs, and some involve darkroom or digital manipulation.

Making a Composite

    One technique for creating a surreal photograph is compositing opposing or disparate elements. Surrealism creates a clash of ideas like those experienced in dreams. Real-world logic goes out the window in surrealism and things are never seen together are found in the same place. Most high-end image-editing software programs like Adobe Photoshop have tools that let you isolate visual elements and place them in different images. Create intricate and dramatic surreal photographs with this technique.

Long Shutter Speeds

    The shutter speed on a camera is excellent tool for creating surreal scenes. Normal shutter speeds last less than a second. A very fast shutter speed can "freeze" action like falling water. Long shutter speeds, those over a second, do the opposite. Long shutter speeds blur motion and can create a dreamlike effect for things like water. Have a subject stand completely still while activity occurs all around them during a long shutter exposure. This will blur the background and leave the subject isolated.

Play With Perspective

    One striking visual characteristic of a dream is the way that things may not be quite the correct size. Evoke the strange imagery of the unconscious by giving the subject an everyday object that is several orders of magnitude larger than it should be, like a gigantic pencil. Additionally, using an object which is only slightly too large or too small is a great way to create cognitive dissonance. Changing the size of a room (i.e. making it too large or too small) is a great way to create tension in a photograph as well.

Be Unexpected

    Create surreal tension in a tableau by forcing things which are unrelated, but not opposite, into the same scene. For example, using fire and ice is not surreal, but conventionally opposite. Use things that are unrelated, like fire and computers or ice and pillows. Things that are tangentially related or related in abstruse ways are much better for evoking the feeling of a dream than simply choosing opposites.

Use Innovative Techniques

    Using techniques like infrared photography to create unexpected images. By blocking the visible light getting to the sensor of your camera, you expose an unseen world. Because infrared light has longer wavelengths, and therefore carries less energy at any given point in time, these photos also require longer shutter speeds to create an image. The effect tends to be spooky. Use a tripod when attempting to take infrared photos. Purchase inexpensive "IR" filters from a photography supply store.



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Monday, January 30, 2017

Posted by Unknown |
How to Create Stereoscopic Photos

Soon after photography was invented in the 19th century, photographers began creating stereoscopic photographs. These photos are made with a camera which has two lenses that simultaneously record slightly different images. When these two images are viewed in a special stereoscopic viewer, the brain merges them into one, so that they appear more three dimensional. You can buy a digital camera that does that these days and special software to view the images in, but it's still less expensive to make analogue stereoscopic images with inexpensive cameras and mounts.

Instructions

Taking the Photographs

    1

    Load the stereoscopic camera with film. If you are using one of the Holga cameras, tape the back of the camera with gaffer tape to avoid light leaks. Remove the lens caps.

    2

    Mount the camera on a tripod. Take the camera on its tripod to the scene that you want to photograph. Take a light reading to determine aperture and shutter speed, if applicable. A good scene for stereoscopic photography is one that has some objects close to the camera and some that are far away. This way, the stereoscopic effects will be noticeable.

    3

    Make the exposure by tripping the shutter. Advance the film two places, because each exposure uses two frames of film. If you are using medium format film with 12 exposures, you can photograph six scenes. Continue to photograph until all the film is used. Roll the film up onto the take-up reel, open the back of the camera, and remove the film.

    4

    Process the film according to the manufacturer's directions, or take it to a lab for processing.

Printing and Mounting the Photographs

    5

    Assemble the Holmes stereographic viewer using the kit.

    6

    Make two small prints for each scene. Mount them, provisionally at first, to a piece of card stock, making sure the left exposure is on the left and the right exposure on the right. Look at them with the viewer. You may have to adjust the distance between the images in order to make them merge correctly.

    7

    Glue the two prints in place on the card stock. View them through the stereoscopic viewer.


How to Create Stereoscopic Photos

Soon after photography was invented in the 19th century, photographers began creating stereoscopic photographs. These photos are made with a camera which has two lenses that simultaneously record slightly different images. When these two images are viewed in a special stereoscopic viewer, the brain merges them into one, so that they appear more three dimensional. You can buy a digital camera that does that these days and special software to view the images in, but it's still less expensive to make analogue stereoscopic images with inexpensive cameras and mounts.

Instructions

Taking the Photographs

    1

    Load the stereoscopic camera with film. If you are using one of the Holga cameras, tape the back of the camera with gaffer tape to avoid light leaks. Remove the lens caps.

    2

    Mount the camera on a tripod. Take the camera on its tripod to the scene that you want to photograph. Take a light reading to determine aperture and shutter speed, if applicable. A good scene for stereoscopic photography is one that has some objects close to the camera and some that are far away. This way, the stereoscopic effects will be noticeable.

    3

    Make the exposure by tripping the shutter. Advance the film two places, because each exposure uses two frames of film. If you are using medium format film with 12 exposures, you can photograph six scenes. Continue to photograph until all the film is used. Roll the film up onto the take-up reel, open the back of the camera, and remove the film.

    4

    Process the film according to the manufacturer's directions, or take it to a lab for processing.

Printing and Mounting the Photographs

    5

    Assemble the Holmes stereographic viewer using the kit.

    6

    Make two small prints for each scene. Mount them, provisionally at first, to a piece of card stock, making sure the left exposure is on the left and the right exposure on the right. Look at them with the viewer. You may have to adjust the distance between the images in order to make them merge correctly.

    7

    Glue the two prints in place on the card stock. View them through the stereoscopic viewer.



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