Problems With Developing Film

Processing and developing photographic film is a precise and often difficult process. Numerous problems can occur, especially for amateurs learning to develop film and depending on what exactly the issue is---from loading or exposing the film to misuse of the chemicals in the dark room.

Exposure Problems

If the film has been overexposed, the film will come out completely dark or black, including the spaces that would border the negative's images. One must remember that any exposure to light after taking the picture will overexpose the film. Underexposed film will be faint to completely clear. This can only happen from taking the picture, perhaps because the film wasn't properly loaded or perhaps the shutter didn't work. This will also happen if the fixer was added before the developer.

Development Problems

If the film has been properly exposed, it can still come out too light or dark from improper development. The developing chemicals' amount and temperature must be precise, along with the time and agitation. If the developer was too cold or diluted, or if the film was not developed long enough with insufficient agitation, the film will come out faint. The film will come out dark if it was in the developer too long or over-agitated or if the chemicals were too hot or over-concentrated.

Uneven Development

Other improper development methods can result in an uneven development. If there wasn't enough chemicals for the amount of film, it will be underdeveloped and lighter on one side. Agitation that was too vigorous can cause the developer to rush through the film's sprocket holes, leading to dense patches on the negatives. Underdeveloped patches are a result of the film coming into contact with itself; this is because the film was improperly loaded onto the reel.

Fixing Problems

Even after proper exposure and developing, the fixing solution can cause problems. The film will look cloudy if it wasn't exposed to the fixer long enough or if the fixer was too old or diluted. This problem can be corrected, however, by placing the film back into the fixer and using fresh solution.

Damaged Surfaces

If you used dirty water in the chemicals or dust got on the film while drying, the dust will embed on the surface. Handling the film roughly can scratch and scuff it, especially on the front emulsion side. Even a piece of dirt can scratch the emulsion and will cause a straight, long scratch if dragged across it. If water droplets form on the film while drying, they will leave circular residue marks. If the film was kinked while loading it onto the reel, this will result in clear, crescent-shaped marks on the film.

---

Processing and developing photographic film is a precise and often difficult process. Numerous problems can occur, especially for amateurs learning to develop film and depending on what exactly the issue is---from loading or exposing the film to misuse of the chemicals in the dark room.

Exposure Problems

If the film has been overexposed, the film will come out completely dark or black, including the spaces that would border the negative's images. One must remember that any exposure to light after taking the picture will overexpose the film. Underexposed film will be faint to completely clear. This can only happen from taking the picture, perhaps because the film wasn't properly loaded or perhaps the shutter didn't work. This will also happen if the fixer was added before the developer.

Development Problems

If the film has been properly exposed, it can still come out too light or dark from improper development. The developing chemicals' amount and temperature must be precise, along with the time and agitation. If the developer was too cold or diluted, or if the film was not developed long enough with insufficient agitation, the film will come out faint. The film will come out dark if it was in the developer too long or over-agitated or if the chemicals were too hot or over-concentrated.

Uneven Development

Other improper development methods can result in an uneven development. If there wasn't enough chemicals for the amount of film, it will be underdeveloped and lighter on one side. Agitation that was too vigorous can cause the developer to rush through the film's sprocket holes, leading to dense patches on the negatives. Underdeveloped patches are a result of the film coming into contact with itself; this is because the film was improperly loaded onto the reel.

Fixing Problems

Even after proper exposure and developing, the fixing solution can cause problems.

Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

. The film will look cloudy if it wasn't exposed to the fixer long enough or if the fixer was too old or diluted. This problem can be corrected, however, by placing the film back into the fixer and using fresh solution.

Damaged Surfaces

If you used dirty water in the chemicals or dust got on the film while drying, the dust will embed on the surface. Handling the film roughly can scratch and scuff it, especially on the front emulsion side. Even a piece of dirt can scratch the emulsion and will cause a straight, long scratch if dragged across it. If water droplets form on the film while drying, they will leave circular residue marks. If the film was kinked while loading it onto the reel, this will result in clear, crescent-shaped marks on the film.

---

• 
  

  How to Develop Kodachrome Film (B&W Hand Processing &

  digital-photography.wonderhowto.com/how-to/develop-kodachrome-film...

  Remember KODACHROME? That color reversal film from Kodak? The film that was the inspiration for Paul Simon? The only brand of film to have a state park named after it?

• 
  

  I wanna... cheap film 35mm developing??? -

  forums.moneysavingexpert.com Discount Codes 'n Vouchers

  Discount Codes 'n Vouchers ... Not too long ago I saw a thread here with discounts for prints from digital pics. I ... Sorry if I've missed the reply to this email ...

• 
  

  Episode 20, how to develop black and white film - YouTube

  www.youtube.com/watch?v=rROBVLNEb3M

  For questions, comments and more info visit prophotolife.com and search for video episode 20.

• 
  

  Universal Developing Battlestar Galactica Movie - Film Junk

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  Developing c41 Film - YouTube

  www.youtube.com/watch?v=1718csN3I0U

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  oldfilmprocessing.com

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  Film Developing at The Darkroom Develop Film by Mail for $10

  thedarkroom.com

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How to Develop T-Max 100 35mm Film Negatives

Kodak T-Max is a versatile panchromatic black-and-white film which produces fine-grain images even at higher film speeds. It can be processed successfully with most black-and-white film developers. The secrets to successfully developing any black-and-white film involve handling the film in complete darkness, either in a photo darkroom or with a light-tight changing bag, and controlling the concentration, temperature and time of the developing chemicals.

Instructions

Prepare the Chemicals

1

Mix the developer, stop bath and fixer in separate one-gallon jugs. Add hot tap water to ensure the chemicals completely dissolve, and allow several hours for the solutions to cool to room temperature.

2

Label the jugs with the names of the chemicals and the date you mixed them.

3

Mix a final concentration of developer in the measuring cup, just before you are ready to process the film. Kodak recommends using 1 part T-Max developer to 4 parts water. Only mix as much developer as you will need to fill the developing tank. Assuming your tank needs 500 ml of solution, pour 100 ml of developer into the measuring cup and fill with 70-degree Fahrenheit tap water to 500 ml. Use the stop bath and fixer right out of the jug with no additional dilution.

Turn Out the Lights and Load the Film

4

Place the developing tank, reels, film cannisters, scissors and bottle opener in the changing bag and seal the bag. If you are working in a darkroom, lay these items out on a work bench so you can find them in complete darkness, then turn out the lights.

5

Pop off one end of the metal 35-mm film cannister with the bottle opener and remove the film. One end of the roll will be taped to a small plastic spool and the free end will have a narrow leader about 3 inches long.

6

Snip off the leader with the scissors. Feel the cut end to make sure there are no jagged edges, especially around the sprockets near the edges of the film. These can cause jamming when loading the film onto a reel.

7

Load the film onto a reel. If you are using plastic reels, push the cut end of the film roll into the guides at the outside edge of the reel until you feel resistance, then twist the top and bottom of the reel back and forth repeatedly. This will grab the film and progressively push it onto the reel. Loading a stainless steel reel takes a little practice. Attach the free end of the film to the clip at the center of the reel. Hold the reel in your left hand and the film in the right. With your right thumb and index finger, bow the film slightly in the direction of the emulsion. The film will naturally curl this way, anyway. With your left hand, turn the reel counterclockwise. The film will load onto the spool from the inside out.

8

Snip off the tape and spool at the end of the roll.

9

Place the loaded reel into the developing tank and attach the light-tight lid.

Turn on the Lights and Develop the Film

10

Pour the developer into the tank, via its baffled, light-tight pour spout. Start the timer or note the time on your clock when you start to pour. Snap the lid on the tank's pour spout to avoid spilling.

11

Hold the tank in one hand with your arm extended and invert it repeatedly by twisting your hand back and forth 180 degrees. Kodak recommends inverting the tank in this manner five to seven times within 5 seconds. Tap the bottom of the tank firmly on your work bench to dislodge any air bubbles on the film or reel.

12

Repeat this agitation once every 30 seconds throughout the development time. According to Kodak's technical sheet F-4016, T-Max 400 film should be developed for 6.5 minutes at 70 degrees F with T-Max developer diluted 1:4.

13

Pour out the developer 10 seconds before the time is up. The diluted developer cannot be reused, so pour it down the drain or, preferably, into a recycling bucket.

14

Pour stop bath into the tank and agitate as described above. After one minute, pour the stop bath back into its jug.

15

Pour the fixer into the tank and agitate as above, every minute. Fixing times vary based on the age and temperature of the fixer, but about 15 minutes at room temperature should do. After about 2 minutes of fixing, your film is no longer light sensitive and you may remove the lid of the tank to inspect your film. When T-Max film is under-fixed, it has a slightly pink tint. Leave your film in the fixer until this tint is gone.

16

Pour the fixer back into its jug and wash the film, on the reel, for at least 20 minutes in running tap water.

17

Remove the film from the reel and, using string and clothespins, hang in a relatively dust-free environment for several hours to dry. Attach a clothespin to the bottom of the film to minimize curling.

---

Kodak T-Max is a versatile panchromatic black-and-white film which produces fine-grain images even at higher film speeds. It can be processed successfully with most black-and-white film developers. The secrets to successfully developing any black-and-white film involve handling the film in complete darkness, either in a photo darkroom or with a light-tight changing bag, and controlling the concentration, temperature and time of the developing chemicals.

Instructions

Prepare the Chemicals

1

Mix the developer, stop bath and fixer in separate one-gallon jugs. Add hot tap water to ensure the chemicals completely dissolve, and allow several hours for the solutions to cool to room temperature.

2

Label the jugs with the names of the chemicals and the date you mixed them.

3

Mix a final concentration of developer in the measuring cup, just before you are ready to process the film. Kodak recommends using 1 part T-Max developer to 4 parts water. Only mix as much developer as you will need to fill the developing tank. Assuming your tank needs 500 ml of solution, pour 100 ml of developer into the measuring cup and fill with 70-degree Fahrenheit tap water to 500 ml. Use the stop bath and fixer right out of the jug with no additional dilution.

Turn Out the Lights and Load the Film

4

Place the developing tank, reels, film cannisters, scissors and bottle opener in the changing bag and seal the bag. If you are working in a darkroom, lay these items out on a work bench so you can find them in complete darkness, then turn out the lights.

5

Pop off one end of the metal 35-mm film cannister with the bottle opener and remove the film. One end of the roll will be taped to a small plastic spool and the free end will have a narrow leader about 3 inches long.

6

Snip off the leader with the scissors. Feel the cut end to make sure there are no jagged edges, especially around the sprockets near the edges of the film. These can cause jamming when loading the film onto a reel.

7

Load the film onto a reel. If you are using plastic reels, push the cut end of the film roll into the guides at the outside edge of the reel until you feel resistance, then twist the top and bottom of the reel back and forth repeatedly. This will grab the film and progressively push it onto the reel. Loading a stainless steel reel takes a little practice. Attach the free end of the film to the clip at the center of the reel. Hold the reel in your left hand and the film in the right. With your right thumb and index finger, bow the film slightly in the direction of the emulsion. The film will naturally curl this way, anyway. With your left hand, turn the reel counterclockwise. The film will load onto the spool from the inside out.

8

Snip off the tape and spool at the end of the roll.

9

Place the loaded reel into the developing tank and attach the light-tight lid.

Turn on the Lights and Develop the Film

10

Pour the developer into the tank, via its baffled, light-tight pour spout. Start the timer or note the time on your clock when you start to pour. Snap the lid on the tank's pour spout to avoid spilling.

11

Hold the tank in one hand with your arm extended and invert it repeatedly by twisting your hand back and forth 180 degrees. Kodak recommends inverting the tank in this manner five to seven times within 5 seconds. Tap the bottom of the tank firmly on your work bench to dislodge any air bubbles on the film or reel.

12

Repeat this agitation once every 30 seconds throughout the development time. According to Kodak's technical sheet F-4016, T-Max 400 film should be developed for 6.5 minutes at 70 degrees F with T-Max developer diluted 1:4.

13

Pour out the developer 10 seconds before the time is up. The diluted developer cannot be reused, so pour it down the drain or, preferably, into a recycling bucket.

14

Pour stop bath into the tank and agitate as described above. After one minute, pour the stop bath back into its jug.

15

Pour the fixer into the tank and agitate as above, every minute. Fixing times vary based on the age and temperature of the fixer, but about 15 minutes at room temperature should do. After about 2 minutes of fixing, your film is no longer light sensitive and you may remove the lid of the tank to inspect your film. When T-Max film is under-fixed, it has a slightly pink tint. Leave your film in the fixer until this tint is gone.

16

Pour the fixer back into its jug and wash the film, on the reel, for at least 20 minutes in running tap water.

17

Remove the film from the reel and, using string and clothespins, hang in a relatively dust-free environment for several hours to dry. Attach a clothespin to the bottom of the film to minimize curling.

---

• 
  

  Larsen Digital Slide Scanning Service Slides Negatives Video

  www.slidescanning.com

  Larsen Digital is a professional slide scanning service that digitally converts transfers 35mm slides negatives video tapes VHS movie film 8mm super8 16mm photos ...

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  How to Develop Color Film: 17 Steps - wikiHow

  www.wikihow.com Film Cameras and Film Photography

  To develop color film, your chemicals need to be 100 degrees Fahrenheit (that's 37.8 degrees Celsius). It's important that the chemicals are not 1 degree higher or 1 ...

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  Nudes: how to create the best photograph from Photo.net

  photo.net/learn/nudes

  Find tips and ideas for photographing the best nudes at Photo.net.

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  How to Choose A Black and White Film Developer Black and

  www.blackandwhitefineart.net/2011/06/how-to-choose-a-black-and...

  Tim Layton discusses key questions that film photographers should consider when selecting a black and white film developer.

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  How to Develop Black and White Film Black and White

  www.blackandwhitefineart.net/bwfilmdev

  I have outlined a quick reference guide for how to develop black and white film with two of the most common developers: Kodak HC-110 and Diafine.

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  The Ultimate Guide to Create Your Own 35mm Pinhole Camera

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  Why spend $3,000 on the newest and greatest camera when you can make one at home and at the same time participate in a centuries old tradition of image making?

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  How many megapixels would it take to equal a 35mm film

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  The short answer is that a modern 24-megapixel digital SLR offers around the same level of resolution as a good film scanned in a modern minilab. Ken Rockwell has ...

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  22 Tips on How to Develop Black and White Film - wikiHow

  www.wikihow.com Film Cameras and Film Photography

  How to Develop Black and White Film. Save money and have fun at the same time by developing your own black and white film. It's quick and easy! Dilute the chemicals.

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  Best 35mm Film? - The Luminous Landscape

  www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?topic=17593

  My favourite high speed negative film used to be Fuji Press 800. Very nice colors, although grainy. For slides and for high speed Fuji Provia 400 is propably the best.

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  The Comprehensive Guide to Vintage Film and Cameras

  photo.tutsplus.com/articles/hardware/the-comprehensive-guide-to...

  So you've dug through your parents' basement, pulled out their vinyl album of Michael Jackson's Thriller and bought yourself an old record player. And for the

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  Printables: Print-at-Home Photo Projects HP Official Site

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  Download HPs free Photo Creation desktop app and create your own printables at home. Choose from personal and professional print-at-home photo projects today.

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  Where To Get 35mm And 120 Film Developed? Photography Board

  www.photographyboard.net/where-to-get-35mm-and-120-film-developed...

  I soon learned that the local one hour places did a horrible job. The local photoshop send my 35mm and Medium format film to some "better lab" down the road.

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  No matter what you're buying from eBay, it's important that you're making well informed purchasing decisions. Our guides will lead you through the process.

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  Our photography and photo tips, techniques, and how to instructions will turn you into a professional photographer in no time. From the editors of PopPhoto.com

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  You can order as I do (cheap!) here and here. Poke around for the various sizes and types. NEWS: July 2004: Fuji's secret new Fortia 50 ...

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• The Online Darkroom: How to develop film

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  Film and darkroom website with info, tips and advice on materials and techniques used in making traditional wet prints.

• Developing C41 Color Film At Home - YouTube

  www.youtube.com/watch?v=aB8qXU7dkNk

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How to Attach a Photo to a Mat

Mat boards, cut into frames, are often used by professional and student photographers to present their photos for portfolios, critiques and shows. Used alone or with an additional plastic, metal or wood frame, mats not only look elegant, but serve a practical purpose to protect glossy and semi-glossy photos from scratches. When you permanently glue a photo to a mat board, it decreases the value and lifespan of an image. To preserve a photo's quality and value, photographers usually attach photographs to a mat using tissue hinges or photo corners, which can be removed without damaging artwork. If your photo has a border, use photo corners, as they offer more support than tissue. If your photograph takes up the entire paper, attach it with hinges.

Instructions

Attaching with Photo Corners

1

Place your photo under the mat and center it.

2

Hold the photo in place using paperweights.

3

Lift up the mat.

4

Peel off the adhesive backing of your photo corners and carefully place them over the corners of your photo. Use 5/8-inch photo corners for a -inch border, and 1 -inch photo corners for a 5/8-inch border.

5

Firmly press the corners of your photo onto your mat board.

6

Fold the mat over your mat board to frame your photo.

Attaching with Hinges

7

Place your photo under the mat and center it.

8

Hold the photo in place using paperweights.

9

Lift up the mat.

10

Cross one piece of tissue or tape over the other piece to form a capital "T."

11

Fold the "T" in half, with the adhesive side out. You have made a "V" hinge.

12

Make another "T" with two more pieces of tape, and fold it the same way. You have made another "V" hinge.

13

Lift up the top edge of your photo and press both of the "V" hinges underneath, one on either side. Place them with the top of the "T" down. The other halves of the tape, the stems of the "Ts," will hold the photo in place.

14

Press your photo down on top of the hinges.

15

Fold your mat over.

---

Mat boards, cut into frames, are often used by professional and student photographers to present their photos for portfolios, critiques and shows. Used alone or with an additional plastic, metal or wood frame, mats not only look elegant, but serve a practical purpose to protect glossy and semi-glossy photos from scratches. When you permanently glue a photo to a mat board, it decreases the value and lifespan of an image. To preserve a photo's quality and value, photographers usually attach photographs to a mat using tissue hinges or photo corners, which can be removed without damaging artwork. If your photo has a border, use photo corners, as they offer more support than tissue. If your photograph takes up the entire paper, attach it with hinges.

Instructions

Attaching with Photo Corners

1

Place your photo under the mat and center it.

2

Hold the photo in place using paperweights.

3

Lift up the mat.

4

Peel off the adhesive backing of your photo corners and carefully place them over the corners of your photo. Use 5/8-inch photo corners for a -inch border, and 1 -inch photo corners for a 5/8-inch border.

5

Firmly press the corners of your photo onto your mat board.

6

Fold the mat over your mat board to frame your photo.

Attaching with Hinges

7

Place your photo under the mat and center it.

8

Hold the photo in place using paperweights.

9

Lift up the mat.

10

Cross one piece of tissue or tape over the other piece to form a capital "T."

11

Fold the "T" in half, with the adhesive side out. You have made a "V" hinge.

12

Make another "T" with two more pieces of tape, and fold it the same way. You have made another "V" hinge.

13

Lift up the top edge of your photo and press both of the "V" hinges underneath, one on either side. Place them with the top of the "T" down. The other halves of the tape, the stems of the "Ts," will hold the photo in place.

14

Press your photo down on top of the hinges.

15

Fold your mat over.

---

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  Flickr: Help: Galleries - Welcome to Flickr - Photo Sharing

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  How to Send or Email Multiple Photos from an iPhone or iPad ...

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How to Take a Photo Showing Extended Motion

Capturing an object's movements in a photo can transform a regular image into a work of art. The effect of capturing motion with a camera is called "motion blur" and is often used in sports photography. You can create the effect using either a digital or analog camera that allows you to set the shutter speed.

Instructions

1

Walk around with your camera while looking through the viewfinder to find the best location for taking your photo. Set up your tripod in that location. Secure your camera to the tripod.

2

Slow down your camera's shutter speed. The slower the shutter speed, the longer the camera's shutter remains open. The speed is defined in fractions of a second. A speed of "1 s" is slower than "1/1000 s."

3

Focus your camera on the moving subject's background until the background looks clear.

4

Decrease the camera's aperture. The aperture controls the size of the shutter opening and amount of light that enters the camera. The aperture is defined in f/stops. "F/16" is smaller than "f/2."

5

Take a test photo to see if you are using the right camera settings for the shot, if you have a digital camera. If you are not capturing enough motion, slow down the shutter speed. If there is too much light, decrease the aperture.

---

Capturing an object's movements in a photo can transform a regular image into a work of art. The effect of capturing motion with a camera is called "motion blur" and is often used in sports photography. You can create the effect using either a digital or analog camera that allows you to set the shutter speed.

Instructions

1

Walk around with your camera while looking through the viewfinder to find the best location for taking your photo. Set up your tripod in that location. Secure your camera to the tripod.

2

Slow down your camera's shutter speed. The slower the shutter speed, the longer the camera's shutter remains open. The speed is defined in fractions of a second. A speed of "1 s" is slower than "1/1000 s."

3

Focus your camera on the moving subject's background until the background looks clear.

4

Decrease the camera's aperture. The aperture controls the size of the shutter opening and amount of light that enters the camera. The aperture is defined in f/stops. "F/16" is smaller than "f/2."

5

Take a test photo to see if you are using the right camera settings for the shot, if you have a digital camera. If you are not capturing enough motion, slow down the shutter speed. If there is too much light, decrease the aperture.

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