Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Posted by Unknown |

For professional and amateur photographers alike, using a studio space and lighting equipment can be a good way to take control of the environment and produce images that wouldn't be possible on location or with natural light. Knowing the basics of studio lighting can save time and money. Having a plan and an understanding of lighting can also speed up the process, resulting in less time spent in the studio and, ultimately, better images.

Planning

    Before entering the studio, or even booking a time slot, it is important to have a plan in place. This includes the date of the shoot, the availability of any models, props, or crew, and the type of lighting set-ups you'd like to use. Make a list of the lights and other equipment you think you'll need. Also, try to determine how many different set-ups you'll want to try out and how long each of them will take to prepare.

Research Equipment

    Once you have a general idea of your project, begin researching the list of needed equipment. Decide how many lights you need, along with how powerful they must be and what sort of filters, bounce cards, or reflectors you'll be using. Each light will be rated in terms of its luminosity, as well as its color temperature. Lights with a higher color temperature produce cool, blue-ish light, while lower color temperatures produce warm, yellow light. Match the color temperatures to your intended effect, as well as the recommended range for your film or digital camera.

Visit the Studio

    Before committing to a studio space, assess the space itself. Make sure that there is adequate room for the set-ups on your list. Also, find out what lights might be available in the studio, such as permanently-installed spotlights or small lighting kits that might be part of a professional studio, or ambient lighting in a room. Finally, try to imagine where your set-ups will take place within the studio. If you're working at home, measure your space and be sure to clear out anything that's unnecessary to give yourself maximum room in which to work in case new set-ups or additional lights are added at the last minute.

Lighting Set-Ups

    Once in the studio, stick to your plan while remaining ready to improvise in case of any unforeseen problems. You'll probably want to use some variation on a traditional three-light scenario, with a primary key light directly on your subject, a less powerful fill light providing illumination on another part of your subject, and a back light behind your subject to produce more even lighting. Simply by varying the position and intensity of these three lights, countless effects are possible. For more complex scenarios other lights may be needed, though dramatic effects such as silhouettes can sometimes be produced with only one or two lights.

Home Studio Lighting

    In some cases, it may be best to work from a home studio, or use your home as a temporary studio space. In this case, make an inventory of all available light sources. These may include windows, lamps, overhead lights and track lighting. Using gauze, tissue paper, or colored filters (colored cling wrap and gift wrap work as well as professional gels) can help to color or diffuse the light. Also, inserting halogen bulbs in place of standard incandescent or compact fluorescent bulbs will produce a higher color temperature, resulting in a whiter quality of light.

Lighting for Film and Video

    In cases where a studio set-up is done for a film or video production, there are added challenges in designing the lighting. While the lighting for a film might be a variation on the three-light set-up, it's important to know how the actors will move through the space. Additional lights can be used to drown out shadows that the key light can create. In some cases, as when actors will move from one part of the space to another in a single shot, two different three-light set-ups can be used, one for each area where the action will take place.


For professional and amateur photographers alike, using a studio space and lighting equipment can be a good way to take control of the environment and produce images that wouldn't be possible on location or with natural light. Knowing the basics of studio lighting can save time and money.

Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

. Having a plan and an understanding of lighting can also speed up the process, resulting in less time spent in the studio and, ultimately, better images.

Planning

    Before entering the studio, or even booking a time slot, it is important to have a plan in place. This includes the date of the shoot, the availability of any models, props, or crew, and the type of lighting set-ups you'd like to use. Make a list of the lights and other equipment you think you'll need. Also, try to determine how many different set-ups you'll want to try out and how long each of them will take to prepare.

Research Equipment

    Once you have a general idea of your project, begin researching the list of needed equipment. Decide how many lights you need, along with how powerful they must be and what sort of filters, bounce cards, or reflectors you'll be using. Each light will be rated in terms of its luminosity, as well as its color temperature. Lights with a higher color temperature produce cool, blue-ish light, while lower color temperatures produce warm, yellow light. Match the color temperatures to your intended effect, as well as the recommended range for your film or digital camera.

Visit the Studio

    Before committing to a studio space, assess the space itself. Make sure that there is adequate room for the set-ups on your list. Also, find out what lights might be available in the studio, such as permanently-installed spotlights or small lighting kits that might be part of a professional studio, or ambient lighting in a room. Finally, try to imagine where your set-ups will take place within the studio. If you're working at home, measure your space and be sure to clear out anything that's unnecessary to give yourself maximum room in which to work in case new set-ups or additional lights are added at the last minute.

Lighting Set-Ups

    Once in the studio, stick to your plan while remaining ready to improvise in case of any unforeseen problems. You'll probably want to use some variation on a traditional three-light scenario, with a primary key light directly on your subject, a less powerful fill light providing illumination on another part of your subject, and a back light behind your subject to produce more even lighting. Simply by varying the position and intensity of these three lights, countless effects are possible. For more complex scenarios other lights may be needed, though dramatic effects such as silhouettes can sometimes be produced with only one or two lights.

Home Studio Lighting

    In some cases, it may be best to work from a home studio, or use your home as a temporary studio space. In this case, make an inventory of all available light sources. These may include windows, lamps, overhead lights and track lighting. Using gauze, tissue paper, or colored filters (colored cling wrap and gift wrap work as well as professional gels) can help to color or diffuse the light. Also, inserting halogen bulbs in place of standard incandescent or compact fluorescent bulbs will produce a higher color temperature, resulting in a whiter quality of light.

Lighting for Film and Video

    In cases where a studio set-up is done for a film or video production, there are added challenges in designing the lighting. While the lighting for a film might be a variation on the three-light set-up, it's important to know how the actors will move through the space. Additional lights can be used to drown out shadows that the key light can create. In some cases, as when actors will move from one part of the space to another in a single shot, two different three-light set-ups can be used, one for each area where the action will take place.



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Posted by Unknown |
How to Convert Color Slides to Digital

Color slides more often than not come from a color still camera. The film negatives are then cut up into slides and used with a slide projector. However, with the decline of film in still cameras and the increase of slide presentation software (such as PowerPoint), you may want to convert your color slides to a digital format. When doing so you have two options: convert the slides yourself with a slide scanner or take the slides to a film developer.

Instructions

Film development location

    1

    Take your slides into a location that develops film (such as Target, Walmart or Wallgreens). These locations also offer slide development and place the images onto a CD. Keep in mind you pay per slide, so if you have a few hundred slides, this is not an advantageous way to go about converting your color slides. However, it works just fine if you have just a few.

    2

    Drop off the slides. This form of development typically takes longer than the standard one hour promised by many locations.

    3

    Return at the given time, pick up the slides, and pay for them.

Slide scanner

    4

    Connect a slide scanner to your computer, then install all the required drivers (they come on a CD with the scanner).

    5

    Insert the first slide into the scanner and click "Start," "All Programs," "Accessories" and finally "Camera and Scanner Wizard." This is a default scanning program installed on all Windows computers.

    6

    Select "Scan," then choose the connected color scanner as the device you want to use.

    7

    Click "Scan" and the color slide is scanned into the computer. Once the scan finishes, click "File," "Save," then name the scan, choose a location to save the file to and click "OK."


How to Convert Color Slides to Digital

Color slides more often than not come from a color still camera. The film negatives are then cut up into slides and used with a slide projector. However, with the decline of film in still cameras and the increase of slide presentation software (such as PowerPoint), you may want to convert your color slides to a digital format. When doing so you have two options: convert the slides yourself with a slide scanner or take the slides to a film developer.

Instructions

Film development location

    1

    Take your slides into a location that develops film (such as Target, Walmart or Wallgreens). These locations also offer slide development and place the images onto a CD. Keep in mind you pay per slide, so if you have a few hundred slides, this is not an advantageous way to go about converting your color slides. However, it works just fine if you have just a few.

    2

    Drop off the slides. This form of development typically takes longer than the standard one hour promised by many locations.

    3

    Return at the given time, pick up the slides, and pay for them.

Slide scanner

    4

    Connect a slide scanner to your computer, then install all the required drivers (they come on a CD with the scanner).

    5

    Insert the first slide into the scanner and click "Start," "All Programs," "Accessories" and finally "Camera and Scanner Wizard." This is a default scanning program installed on all Windows computers.

    6

    Select "Scan," then choose the connected color scanner as the device you want to use.

    7

    Click "Scan" and the color slide is scanned into the computer. Once the scan finishes, click "File," "Save," then name the scan, choose a location to save the file to and click "OK."



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Posted by Unknown |
How to Photograph a Baseball Game

I have a really good friend that has an Uncle that has really good box seat tickets at Shea Stadium. One weekend we got the phone call asking, "Hey you guys, want to go see the Mets on Saturday?" Of course the answer was, "YES!" It was a perfect night for baseball, and of course, Shea Stadium is a real baseball park where they play outside and on grass. I always wonder what it smells like inside Minute Maid Park or Tropicana Stadium. In any case, there is no place like a Major League ballpark to see the diversity of the human race and something uniquely American. There are a lot of photographic challenges in trying to take pictures at the game. Don't be disappointed if your shots don't look like the ones in "Sports Illustrated"--however, if you are patient and persistent--you can get some really good pictures at the ball game. Here are some of my suggestions.

Instructions

    1
    Behind The Net

    We were fortunate to have some of the best seats for watching the game, directly behind the batter. We obviously had a better view than the home plate umpire based on some of his calls. However, the seats were not good for taking pictures due to the net that protects the spectator from getting killed by foul balls. Sure you can take great action shots like this one, but the net interferes with the eye flow. I can't think of any way to get rid of the screen other than a lot of critical airbrushing, which I still may try. Turn off your flash since you are too far away, even in good seats, for the flash to be effective. Adjust your ISO sensitivity to at least 1600. This will allow you to use a shutter speed of 1/200 of a second to freeze the action. You will not be allowed to take a tripod into the ball park, so there is really not an effective way to take blur motion shots.

    2
    First Base Line

    It is easy to walk around at the ball park. There are always a lot of people walking around since there is no intermission during a baseball game. Security personnel will not let you just stand around at the railings or behind the dugouts. Shea Stadium was the first ballpark built without poles obstructing the field of view, so you can get good pictures from anywhere. This image was taken with a 200mm lens from the first base side at the top of the section. The farther back you are sitting, the longer the lens you will need. At night games you will be shooting at relatively low light levels, so steady your hands on a railing to minimize camera shake and blur.

    3
    Getting a Hit

    It is an art to get a picture of the ball coming off the bat. The professional sports photographers make it look easy, but it is not. The best thing to do is to take a picture of every pitch. You can always throw away the bad ones. Try timing your shot clicking just as the pitcher releases the ball. This is the best one I got that night. You can see the ball right after it was hit.

    4
    Mr. Met

    Don't forget to occasionally look away from the action. You may get a nice candid shot of people or someone catching a foul ball. If you are lucky, you might even get a shot of the team mascot. It doesn't matter if it is Dancing Homer or Mr. Met, you will probably see some interesting fan interaction when they pop up.

    5
    Americana

    I had the chance to attend a game during the last days of Shea Stadium. It really is an historic venue. The Jets won the Super Bowl while playing at Shea, and it has played host to the Beatles and many other famous people in addition to being home of the New York Mets. Regardless of what ball park you visit, make sure you take some pictures of the unique features. The arches at Yankee Stadium, the Fenway Green Monster, and yes, the Home Run Apple at Shea Stadium are all worth a picture. Nobody yet knows if they will move the now decrepit Home Run Apple to the new Citi Field. It could wind up in some Americana Museum.

    6
    High Five

    Good photographs come from the uniqueness of the location. The ballpark itself is unique, but so is each location within the ballpark. I was thinking all night of how to use the stupid net that was saving my life to a photographic advantage. All I could think of was how to get RID of the net, and then during Murphy's home run I figured out how to USE it. Any location can be used to a creative advantage.


How to Photograph a Baseball Game

I have a really good friend that has an Uncle that has really good box seat tickets at Shea Stadium. One weekend we got the phone call asking, "Hey you guys, want to go see the Mets on Saturday?" Of course the answer was, "YES!" It was a perfect night for baseball, and of course, Shea Stadium is a real baseball park where they play outside and on grass. I always wonder what it smells like inside Minute Maid Park or Tropicana Stadium. In any case, there is no place like a Major League ballpark to see the diversity of the human race and something uniquely American. There are a lot of photographic challenges in trying to take pictures at the game. Don't be disappointed if your shots don't look like the ones in "Sports Illustrated"--however, if you are patient and persistent--you can get some really good pictures at the ball game. Here are some of my suggestions.

Instructions

    1
    Behind The Net

    We were fortunate to have some of the best seats for watching the game, directly behind the batter. We obviously had a better view than the home plate umpire based on some of his calls. However, the seats were not good for taking pictures due to the net that protects the spectator from getting killed by foul balls. Sure you can take great action shots like this one, but the net interferes with the eye flow. I can't think of any way to get rid of the screen other than a lot of critical airbrushing, which I still may try. Turn off your flash since you are too far away, even in good seats, for the flash to be effective. Adjust your ISO sensitivity to at least 1600. This will allow you to use a shutter speed of 1/200 of a second to freeze the action. You will not be allowed to take a tripod into the ball park, so there is really not an effective way to take blur motion shots.

    2
    First Base Line

    It is easy to walk around at the ball park. There are always a lot of people walking around since there is no intermission during a baseball game. Security personnel will not let you just stand around at the railings or behind the dugouts. Shea Stadium was the first ballpark built without poles obstructing the field of view, so you can get good pictures from anywhere. This image was taken with a 200mm lens from the first base side at the top of the section. The farther back you are sitting, the longer the lens you will need. At night games you will be shooting at relatively low light levels, so steady your hands on a railing to minimize camera shake and blur.

    3
    Getting a Hit

    It is an art to get a picture of the ball coming off the bat. The professional sports photographers make it look easy, but it is not. The best thing to do is to take a picture of every pitch.

    Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

    . You can always throw away the bad ones. Try timing your shot clicking just as the pitcher releases the ball. This is the best one I got that night. You can see the ball right after it was hit.

    4
    Mr. Met

    Don't forget to occasionally look away from the action. You may get a nice candid shot of people or someone catching a foul ball. If you are lucky, you might even get a shot of the team mascot. It doesn't matter if it is Dancing Homer or Mr. Met, you will probably see some interesting fan interaction when they pop up.

    5
    Americana

    I had the chance to attend a game during the last days of Shea Stadium. It really is an historic venue. The Jets won the Super Bowl while playing at Shea, and it has played host to the Beatles and many other famous people in addition to being home of the New York Mets. Regardless of what ball park you visit, make sure you take some pictures of the unique features. The arches at Yankee Stadium, the Fenway Green Monster, and yes, the Home Run Apple at Shea Stadium are all worth a picture. Nobody yet knows if they will move the now decrepit Home Run Apple to the new Citi Field. It could wind up in some Americana Museum.

    6
    High Five

    Good photographs come from the uniqueness of the location. The ballpark itself is unique, but so is each location within the ballpark. I was thinking all night of how to use the stupid net that was saving my life to a photographic advantage. All I could think of was how to get RID of the net, and then during Murphy's home run I figured out how to USE it. Any location can be used to a creative advantage.



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Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Posted by Unknown |

No matter how fancy his studio or how expensive his camera, there is one very humble item that no photographer likes to be without. It is called an apple box -- a simple plywood box with handles. Photographers use these to raise almost anything to a greater height, particularly their subjects. Apple boxes come in four sizes: a full apple, half apple, quarter apple and eighth apple, which is often called a pancake. Although most photography suppliers sell them, you can also make them yourself.

Instructions

    1

    Measure eight 12-by-20 in. sections from the 1/2 in. plywood. Mark the sections with a pencil.

    2

    Cut out the sections and set them aside. These will become the tops of the boxes.

    3

    Measure 20 in. in from one side of the 3/4 in. plywood. Draw a line along the length of the board.

    4

    Measure, mark and cut four 12-by-20 in. sections. These will become pancakes.

    5

    Measure and mark the remaining piece of board at 20 inches, 30.5 inches and 41 inches down its length. Cut the board along your guide marks. This will give you one board that is 20-inches wide and two that are 10.5 inches wide.

    6

    Measure and mark two 20-by-7 inch sections, two 20-by-3 inch sections and two 20-by-1 inch sections from the 20-inch wide board.

    7

    Cut the board along the guide lines. These pieces form the sides of the boxes.

    8

    Measure, mark and cut one of the 10.5-inch boards into three 10.5-by-7-inch sections. These form the front, back and center support for the full apple box.

    9

    Measure, mark and cut the remaining board into three 10.5-by-3-inch sections and three 10.5-by-1-inch sections. These will become the front, back and center supports for the half and quarter boxes.

    10

    Select two of the 10.5-by-7-inch pieces to become the front and back of the full apple box. Orient them so that the longer side is at the bottom.

    11

    Mark two rectangles that are 1.5 inches from the top and bottom, 3 inches in from either side and 1 inch high.

    12

    Drill a 1-inch hole at both ends of the rectangles, then cut out the remaining section with a reciprocating saw to form the box's handles.

    13

    Repeat this process to make handles on two of the 10.5-by-3 inch sections. You only need to make one handle on each of these instead of two.

    14

    Collect all of the 7-inch high pieces and set them aside for the full apple box. Set the 3-inch high pieces aside for the half apple box and the 1-inch high pieces aside for the quarter apple box. Add one of the 12-by-20-inch tops to each group.

    15

    Perform a test assembly of each box without using screws or glue. The 20-inch long pieces that form the sides go on the outside with the 10.5 inches long front, back and center supports between them. Place the 12-by-20-inch board on top and make sure everything is flush.

    16

    Glue the pieces together and clamp them into place. Allow the boxes to dry thoroughly.

    17

    Screw the pieces together for additional support.

    18

    Create a rectangle on either end of the quarter apple box that is 1.5 inch from the top, 3 inches from each side and 3/4 inch high.

    19

    Drill a 3/4-inch hole at both ends of the rectangles, then cut out the remaining section with a reciprocating saw to form the handles.

    20

    Sand the boxes until they are smooth.

    21

    Paint each box black, if desired.


No matter how fancy his studio or how expensive his camera, there is one very humble item that no photographer likes to be without. It is called an apple box -- a simple plywood box with handles. Photographers use these to raise almost anything to a greater height, particularly their subjects. Apple boxes come in four sizes: a full apple, half apple, quarter apple and eighth apple, which is often called a pancake. Although most photography suppliers sell them, you can also make them yourself.

Instructions

    1

    Measure eight 12-by-20 in. sections from the 1/2 in. plywood. Mark the sections with a pencil.

    2

    Cut out the sections and set them aside. These will become the tops of the boxes.

    3

    Measure 20 in. in from one side of the 3/4 in. plywood. Draw a line along the length of the board.

    4

    Measure, mark and cut four 12-by-20 in. sections. These will become pancakes.

    5

    Measure and mark the remaining piece of board at 20 inches, 30.5 inches and 41 inches down its length. Cut the board along your guide marks. This will give you one board that is 20-inches wide and two that are 10.5 inches wide.

    6

    Measure and mark two 20-by-7 inch sections, two 20-by-3 inch sections and two 20-by-1 inch sections from the 20-inch wide board.

    7

    Cut the board along the guide lines. These pieces form the sides of the boxes.

    8

    Measure, mark and cut one of the 10.5-inch boards into three 10.5-by-7-inch sections. These form the front, back and center support for the full apple box.

    9

    Measure, mark and cut the remaining board into three 10.5-by-3-inch sections and three 10.5-by-1-inch sections. These will become the front, back and center supports for the half and quarter boxes.

    10

    Select two of the 10.5-by-7-inch pieces to become the front and back of the full apple box. Orient them so that the longer side is at the bottom.

    11

    Mark two rectangles that are 1.5 inches from the top and bottom, 3 inches in from either side and 1 inch high.

    12

    Drill a 1-inch hole at both ends of the rectangles, then cut out the remaining section with a reciprocating saw to form the box's handles.

    13

    Repeat this process to make handles on two of the 10.5-by-3 inch sections. You only need to make one handle on each of these instead of two.

    14

    Collect all of the 7-inch high pieces and set them aside for the full apple box. Set the 3-inch high pieces aside for the half apple box and the 1-inch high pieces aside for the quarter apple box. Add one of the 12-by-20-inch tops to each group.

    15

    Perform a test assembly of each box without using screws or glue. The 20-inch long pieces that form the sides go on the outside with the 10.5 inches long front, back and center supports between them. Place the 12-by-20-inch board on top and make sure everything is flush.

    16

    Glue the pieces together and clamp them into place. Allow the boxes to dry thoroughly.

    17

    Screw the pieces together for additional support.

    18

    Create a rectangle on either end of the quarter apple box that is 1.5 inch from the top, 3 inches from each side and 3/4 inch high.

    19

    Drill a 3/4-inch hole at both ends of the rectangles, then cut out the remaining section with a reciprocating saw to form the handles.

    20

    Sand the boxes until they are smooth.

    21

    Paint each box black, if desired.



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