While proper exposure will prevent extremely overexposed or "blown" film, there are some ways to deal with the problem. This is referred to as "stretching" the exposure range of the film. When the film is overexposed, too many of the silver halide crystals embedded in the film become activated. These crystals are washed away during development, leading to large clear spots on the film where there should be detail. While no process can bring back this detail, a printable image may still be produced.
Short Printing
When you are printing in a darkroom, the amount of time you expose the paper for affects how dark the resulting print will be. Because blown film contains many clear areas, you cannot print it for the normal amount of time. This is ideally more than 10 seconds. However, you can print the film for shorter intervals of time by setting the time for three to six seconds and closing the enlarger lens to its smallest aperture, indicated by the largest number, such as 16 or 32.
Shortening Development Time
Shortening the development time can be done during the printing process or the film developing process. It is most effective when used while developing the film. During the first step of development, when you add and agitate the developer, either dilute the developer further than normal by adding more water to the mix than you usually do or develop the film for less time than you normally do. This reduces the amount of silver halide crystals that are washed away, giving the film more density and possibly more detail.
Scanning Film
Sometimes, things that don't show up in a traditional darkroom print may show up on a digital scan of a negative. Use a dedicated film scanner connected to your computer to scan the image, as this will pick up the maximum amount of detail. Use the extreme low settings on the scanner to avoid producing an over-exposed or overly dark scan. Once you have made the scan, you can edit the image digitally and create an inkjet print or use a negative printer to reprint the negative onto film.
High-Contrast Filters
When printing in a darkroom, contrast filters are used to adjust the brightness and darkness of the whites and blacks in an image, respectively. Because thin or blown negatives are often lacking in contrast, it may be possible to produce an acceptable print by using a higher contrast filter than normal. While most prints can be printed at a two- or three-grade contrast filter, thinner negatives may require a five-grade contrast filter, which is the highest grade available.
While proper exposure will prevent extremely overexposed or "blown" film, there are some ways to deal with the problem. This is referred to as "stretching" the exposure range of the film. When the film is overexposed, too many of the silver halide crystals embedded in the film become activated. These crystals are washed away during development, leading to large clear spots on the film where there should be detail. While no process can bring back this detail, a printable image may still be produced.
Short Printing
When you are printing in a darkroom, the amount of time you expose the paper for affects how dark the resulting print will be. Because blown film contains many clear areas, you cannot print it for the normal amount of time. This is ideally more than 10 seconds. However, you can print the film for shorter intervals of time by setting the time for three to six seconds and closing the enlarger lens to its smallest aperture, indicated by the largest number, such as 16 or 32.
Shortening Development Time
Shortening the development time can be done during the printing process or the film developing process. It is most effective when used while developing the film. During the first step of development, when you add and agitate the developer, either dilute the developer further than normal by adding more water to the mix than you usually do or develop the film for less time than you normally do. This reduces the amount of silver halide crystals that are washed away, giving the film more density and possibly more detail.
Scanning Film
Sometimes, things that don't show up in a traditional darkroom print may show up on a digital scan of a negative. Use a dedicated film scanner connected to your computer to scan the image, as this will pick up the maximum amount of detail. Use the extreme low settings on the scanner to avoid producing an over-exposed or overly dark scan. Once you have made the scan, you can edit the image digitally and create an inkjet print or use a negative printer to reprint the negative onto film.
High-Contrast Filters
When printing in a darkroom, contrast filters are used to adjust the brightness and darkness of the whites and blacks in an image, respectively. Because thin or blown negatives are often lacking in contrast, it may be possible to produce an acceptable print by using a higher contrast filter than normal. While most prints can be printed at a two- or three-grade contrast filter, thinner negatives may require a five-grade contrast filter, which is the highest grade available.
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