When printing black and white photographs, film photographers and darkroom enthusiasts have a plethora of options and decisions. Chief among these is whether to using resin-coated (RC) or fiber-based (FB) photo paper for the final image. RC paper has a plastic coating of photosensitive emulsion, while FB paper does not. It has been argued FB is longer-lasting than RC, but this has not been proven. FB paper is often more difficult to wash and to work with, and is notorious for curling once dry, particular in its lighter weights.
Instructions
- 1
Mix all chemicals in developing trays and place on a steady surface away from your photo paper and the enlarger and near a sink or other water source and drain.
2Turn off all lights in your darkroom and check that no light enters from your darkroom door or from any other source. Insert your black and white negative you plan to print into the enlarger's negative carrier. Adjust the enlarger up and down or extend the bellows until the projected negative image is in focus and at the correct size for your print.
3Focus the image on a blank sheet of paper at the appropriate print size on your easel. Use the same weight as the photo paper you plan to use. Turn off the enlarger.
4Place the FB photo paper in your easel. Double-check that the easel is set to the appropriate print size and the photo paper is straight. Close the easel. Turn the enlarger on and expose the photo paper for the appropriate length of time to get your desired exposure. Turn off the enlarger. This step can be repeated if the print comes out over- or underexposed. Increasing the time exposed will darken the print. Reducing the time exposed will lighten the print.
5Remove the exposed photo paper from the easel and set it, emulsion side down, in the developer. Agitate the developing tray with the print and the developer for at least 30 seconds. Turn the print over and check on the development. Development may take 90 seconds or longer.
6Place the print in the water bath to remove developer. Wash gently for 30 seconds in the water bath. Place the print in the fixer with the emulsion side down and agitate continuously for at least 30 seconds before turning the print over.
7Check that all light-sensitive photo paper is put away in either a paper safe or the paper's light-blocking packaging, turn on your darkroom lights and examine the print. If the print is incorrectly exposed, repeat these steps and adjust exposure accordingly.
8Wash the print thoroughly under tepid water. Wash longer than you would normally wash RC paper so as to remove as much chemical deposit within the fiber of the paper as possible. This will help with print curling later on.
9Insert the print into the print dryer and allow the print to dry fully before removal. Mount the print in matting to ensure the print remains flat. You may also sandwich the print between two pieces of wax paper and two heavy books to reduce the curl of the print after dry.
When printing black and white photographs, film photographers and darkroom enthusiasts have a plethora of options and decisions. Chief among these is whether to using resin-coated (RC) or fiber-based (FB) photo paper for the final image. RC paper has a plastic coating of photosensitive emulsion, while FB paper does not. It has been argued FB is longer-lasting than RC, but this has not been proven. FB paper is often more difficult to wash and to work with, and is notorious for curling once dry, particular in its lighter weights.
Instructions
- 1
Mix all chemicals in developing trays and place on a steady surface away from your photo paper and the enlarger and near a sink or other water source and drain.
2Turn off all lights in your darkroom and check that no light enters from your darkroom door or from any other source. Insert your black and white negative you plan to print into the enlarger's negative carrier. Adjust the enlarger up and down or extend the bellows until the projected negative image is in focus and at the correct size for your print.
3Focus the image on a blank sheet of paper at the appropriate print size on your easel. Use the same weight as the photo paper you plan to use. Turn off the enlarger.
4Place the FB photo paper in your easel. Double-check that the easel is set to the appropriate print size and the photo paper is straight. Close the easel. Turn the enlarger on and expose the photo paper for the appropriate length of time to get your desired exposure. Turn off the enlarger. This step can be repeated if the print comes out over- or underexposed. Increasing the time exposed will darken the print. Reducing the time exposed will lighten the print.
5Remove the exposed photo paper from the easel and set it, emulsion side down, in the developer. Agitate the developing tray with the print and the developer for at least 30 seconds. Turn the print over and check on the development. Development may take 90 seconds or longer.
6Place the print in the water bath to remove developer. Wash gently for 30 seconds in the water bath. Place the print in the fixer with the emulsion side down and agitate continuously for at least 30 seconds before turning the print over.
7Check that all light-sensitive photo paper is put away in either a paper safe or the paper's light-blocking packaging, turn on your darkroom lights and examine the print. If the print is incorrectly exposed, repeat these steps and adjust exposure accordingly.
8Wash the print thoroughly under tepid water. Wash longer than you would normally wash RC paper so as to remove as much chemical deposit within the fiber of the paper as possible. This will help with print curling later on.
9Insert the print into the print dryer and allow the print to dry fully before removal. Mount the print in matting to ensure the print remains flat. You may also sandwich the print between two pieces of wax paper and two heavy books to reduce the curl of the print after dry.
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