Fashion photography was created as a result of the emergence of photography and fashion magazines at the beginning of the 20th century. The first universally known fashion photographers, including Cecil Beaton, Horst P. Horst and George Hoyningen-Huene, started their careers in the 1920s alongside a large group of lesser-known artists. Like fashion, most photographs were forgotten once the new season had arrived; however, some pictures managed to create an interest outside the industry and became iconic, either for artistic reasons or through creating controversy.
George Hoyningen-Huene and "Divers"
Russian born photographer George Hoyningen-Huene shot a photograph of his colleague and friend, Horst P. Horst, and an unnamed model in 1930 for the French edition of Vogue. The photograph of two figures gazing into the distance is a remarkable display of fastidious set arrangements, composition, lighting and design. "Divers" had been taken in connection with an advertisment for swimwear by the designer Izod, but was recycled in 2010 by photographer Herb Ritts in a marketing campaign for perfume producer Guy Laroche and the Horizon pour Homme line. George Hoyningen-Huene left Europe in 1935 for America, took U.S. citizenship and worked in the film industry, mainly for film director George Cukor. He died in 1968.
Richard Avedon and "Dovima with Elephants"
Shot in 1955 in the Cirque d'Hiver in Paris, the picture featuring a woman in an evening gown with sash, placed among a group of elephants, is an iconic classic and regarded as a 20th century piece of art. Prints of the photograph can be found in the Museum of Modern Art in New York and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. In 2010, another print was sold for $1.15 million to the fashion house Dior, home of the dress featured in the picture. American photographer Richard Avedon shot the picture for Harper's Bazaar with model Dorothy Virginia Margaret Juba, Dovima for short, who at that time was one the highest paid models in the business. She left the fashion industry in 1962 and died in 1990. Richard Avedon died in 2004.
Helmut Newton and "Le Smoking"
Taken in 1975 for the French edition of the fashion magazine Vogue, "Le Smoking" marks a landmark collaboration between Australian photographer Helmut Newton and French designer Yves St. Laurent. The photograph depicts an androgynous model dressed in a tuxedo and leisurely smoking a cigarette in a back street in Paris. The tuxedo had been designed by St. Laurent in 1966 with the intention of liberating women through placing them in men's clothes. However, once the photo had been published, it was surrounded by controversy due to Newton's choice of a dark backstreet setting, which could be interpreted as an allusion to seediness rather than radical feminism. The photograph has become iconic and is often featured in exhibitions and alongside articles about both the photographer and the designer. Helmut Newton died in 2004 while Yves St. Laurent passed away in 2008.
Bruce Weber and the "CK/Tom Hintnaus Ad"
In 1982, the traffic on Time Square stood still when a large Calvin Klein ad showing a scantily dressed Olympic gold medal winner was set up in the vicinity. The picture of pole vaulter Tom Hintnaus in underpants was taken by American photographer Bruce Weber in Greece. The photograph then was regarded as controversial as it quite obviously forced everybody's eyes on the bulge which every male underwear campaign until then so carefully avoided. However, it changed fashion photography forever by breaking the last taboo on male sexuality in advertisement and has since been copied regularly. Tom Hintnaus currently resides in Hawaii where he works as a contractor, while Bruce Weber remains one of the world's foremost fashion photographers.
Peter Lindbergh and the "UK Vogue January 1990 Cover"
Unlike other iconic fashion photographs, Peter Lindbergh's picture showing supermodels Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patitz, Christy Turlington and Cindy Crawford was not made famous for controversial content or spectacular set. It represented a change to new era where models became more important than the photographer and the fashion designer. Few people outside the trade remember that Lindbergh took the photograph, and even fewer realized that the women actually were modelling tops designed by Giorgio di Sant'Angelo. The cover's message of power to the models was reinforced by Evangelista's quote, "We don't wake up for less than $10,000 a day," which she said the same year to U.S. Vogue contributor Jonathan van Meter. Most of the girls went on to marry (and divorce) movie stars and can still be seen occasionally on magazine covers. Photographer Peter Lindbergh also continues to take fashion photographs.
Fashion photography was created as a result of the emergence of photography and fashion magazines at the beginning of the 20th century. The first universally known fashion photographers, including Cecil Beaton, Horst P. Horst and George Hoyningen-Huene, started their careers in the 1920s alongside a large group of lesser-known artists. Like fashion, most photographs were forgotten once the new season had arrived; however, some pictures managed to create an interest outside the industry and became iconic, either for artistic reasons or through creating controversy.
George Hoyningen-Huene and "Divers"
Russian born photographer George Hoyningen-Huene shot a photograph of his colleague and friend, Horst P. Horst, and an unnamed model in 1930 for the French edition of Vogue. The photograph of two figures gazing into the distance is a remarkable display of fastidious set arrangements, composition, lighting and design. "Divers" had been taken in connection with an advertisment for swimwear by the designer Izod, but was recycled in 2010 by photographer Herb Ritts in a marketing campaign for perfume producer Guy Laroche and the Horizon pour Homme line. George Hoyningen-Huene left Europe in 1935 for America, took U.S. citizenship and worked in the film industry, mainly for film director George Cukor. He died in 1968.
Richard Avedon and "Dovima with Elephants"
Shot in 1955 in the Cirque d'Hiver in Paris, the picture featuring a woman in an evening gown with sash, placed among a group of elephants, is an iconic classic and regarded as a 20th century piece of art. Prints of the photograph can be found in the Museum of Modern Art in New York and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. In 2010, another print was sold for $1.15 million to the fashion house Dior, home of the dress featured in the picture. American photographer Richard Avedon shot the picture for Harper's Bazaar with model Dorothy Virginia Margaret Juba, Dovima for short, who at that time was one the highest paid models in the business. She left the fashion industry in 1962 and died in 1990. Richard Avedon died in 2004.
Helmut Newton and "Le Smoking"
Taken in 1975 for the French edition of the fashion magazine Vogue, "Le Smoking" marks a landmark collaboration between Australian photographer Helmut Newton and French designer Yves St. Laurent. The photograph depicts an androgynous model dressed in a tuxedo and leisurely smoking a cigarette in a back street in Paris. The tuxedo had been designed by St. Laurent in 1966 with the intention of liberating women through placing them in men's clothes. However, once the photo had been published, it was surrounded by controversy due to Newton's choice of a dark backstreet setting, which could be interpreted as an allusion to seediness rather than radical feminism. The photograph has become iconic and is often featured in exhibitions and alongside articles about both the photographer and the designer. Helmut Newton died in 2004 while Yves St. Laurent passed away in 2008.
Bruce Weber and the "CK/Tom Hintnaus Ad"
In 1982, the traffic on Time Square stood still when a large Calvin Klein ad showing a scantily dressed Olympic gold medal winner was set up in the vicinity. The picture of pole vaulter Tom Hintnaus in underpants was taken by American photographer Bruce Weber in Greece. The photograph then was regarded as controversial as it quite obviously forced everybody's eyes on the bulge which every male underwear campaign until then so carefully avoided. However, it changed fashion photography forever by breaking the last taboo on male sexuality in advertisement and has since been copied regularly. Tom Hintnaus currently resides in Hawaii where he works as a contractor, while Bruce Weber remains one of the world's foremost fashion photographers.
Peter Lindbergh and the "UK Vogue January 1990 Cover"
Unlike other iconic fashion photographs, Peter Lindbergh's picture showing supermodels Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patitz, Christy Turlington and Cindy Crawford was not made famous for controversial content or spectacular set. It represented a change to new era where models became more important than the photographer and the fashion designer. Few people outside the trade remember that Lindbergh took the photograph, and even fewer realized that the women actually were modelling tops designed by Giorgio di Sant'Angelo. The cover's message of power to the models was reinforced by Evangelista's quote, "We don't wake up for less than $10,000 a day," which she said the same year to U.S. Vogue contributor Jonathan van Meter. Most of the girls went on to marry (and divorce) movie stars and can still be seen occasionally on magazine covers. Photographer Peter Lindbergh also continues to take fashion photographs.
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