How to Make a 35 mm Negative Contact Sheet

A contact sheet -- also called a proof sheet or contact print -- gets its name from the fact that the negative strips are actually in contact with the photographic paper when they are printed, unlike other prints, which are created by an image projected onto the paper. To create a traditional 35 mm negative contact sheet, you'll need a photo enlarger or other controllable light source, as well as a lightproof darkroom setup. It may be easier and cheaper to let a professional photo lab make your contact sheet or to use digital images and computer software to approximate the look of a contact sheet, but you can still do it the old-fashioned way.

Instructions

1

Set up your darkroom using black plastic and darkroom tape to seal every possible light source. Even the tiniest light leak can ruin photo paper. Bathrooms make good darkrooms since they have running water. Set up your photo-developing trays on a counter and mix the chemicals following the directions on the bottle. Put the rinse tray in the sink under the faucet. Use the thermometer to make sure chemical temperatures are correct. Focus the enlarger, set it to 35 mm and the smallest aperture setting, and adjust the light so it covers the easel area completely.

2

Cut your negatives into strips, remove any dust from them with a shot of compressed air and carefully slide them into the archival negative page, emulsion side down.

3

Turn out all lights except the safelight. Remove a piece of 8 x 10 photo paper from its package and center it under the enlarger with the emulsion side up. Place the negative page on top of the paper, emulsion side down. Cover the negatives with the heavy piece of glass.

4

Adjust the exposure time on your enlarger and press the button to expose the image. Depending on the exposure of your negatives, film type and brightness of your enlarger bulb, exposure time may range from 10 to 30 seconds or more.

5

When the exposure is done, remove the glass and negative page and slide the sheet of photo paper into the developer tray. Use the tongs to gently agitate the developer for the length of time specified on the label, usually about two minutes.

6

Remove the paper from the developer with the tongs and place it in the stop bath for about 30 seconds or as specified on the label.

7

Place the print in the fixer for about two minutes. You can turn the light on at this point.

8

Remove the print from the fixer and put it in the rinse tray under running water for about 10 minutes. Then, put it in the drying rack or hang it from the drying line.

---

A contact sheet -- also called a proof sheet or contact print -- gets its name from the fact that the negative strips are actually in contact with the photographic paper when they are printed, unlike other prints, which are created by an image projected onto the paper. To create a traditional 35 mm negative contact sheet, you'll need a photo enlarger or other controllable light source, as well as a lightproof darkroom setup. It may be easier and cheaper to let a professional photo lab make your contact sheet or to use digital images and computer software to approximate the look of a contact sheet, but you can still do it the old-fashioned way.

Instructions

1

Set up your darkroom using black plastic and darkroom tape to seal every possible light source. Even the tiniest light leak can ruin photo paper. Bathrooms make good darkrooms since they have running water. Set up your photo-developing trays on a counter and mix the chemicals following the directions on the bottle. Put the rinse tray in the sink under the faucet. Use the thermometer to make sure chemical temperatures are correct. Focus the enlarger, set it to 35 mm and the smallest aperture setting, and adjust the light so it covers the easel area completely.

2

Cut your negatives into strips, remove any dust from them with a shot of compressed air and carefully slide them into the archival negative page, emulsion side down.

3

Turn out all lights except the safelight. Remove a piece of 8 x 10 photo paper from its package and center it under the enlarger with the emulsion side up. Place the negative page on top of the paper, emulsion side down. Cover the negatives with the heavy piece of glass.

4

Adjust the exposure time on your enlarger and press the button to expose the image. Depending on the exposure of your negatives, film type and brightness of your enlarger bulb, exposure time may range from 10 to 30 seconds or more.

5

When the exposure is done, remove the glass and negative page and slide the sheet of photo paper into the developer tray. Use the tongs to gently agitate the developer for the length of time specified on the label, usually about two minutes.

6

Remove the paper from the developer with the tongs and place it in the stop bath for about 30 seconds or as specified on the label.

7

Place the print in the fixer for about two minutes. You can turn the light on at this point.

8

Remove the print from the fixer and put it in the rinse tray under running water for about 10 minutes. Then, put it in the drying rack or hang it from the drying line.

---

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