Perhaps you would like to isolate a particular object from a photo and portray it over a white background for an advertisement. Or, perhaps you are creating a party invitation and need to white out an area to add the information. With photo editing software such as Photoshop CS3, selecting parts of your image and filling them with a solid, opaque color requires only a few simple steps.
Instructions
1
Open your photo in Photoshop CS3. Select "Open" from the File menu and choose the file that you would like to edit.
2
Use the Rectangular Marquee Tool to select the area you would like to fill with white color. If the area is a nonrectangular shape, use the Lasso Tool found in the tool panel on the left side of the window.
3
Choose "Edit > Fill." When prompted to specify the fill color, select White under Use from the drop-down menu. Select OK.
Alternatively, use the Eraser Tool in the tool panel to whiten specific areas of your photo. Modify the brush size and opacity to suit your preferences.
4
Use the Dodge Tool in the tool panel, if you would simply like to lighten areas of your image rather than whitening them entirely, to lighten highlights, midtones or shadows of a particular area.
Perhaps you would like to isolate a particular object from a photo and portray it over a white background for an advertisement. Or, perhaps you are creating a party invitation and need to white out an area to add the information.
. With photo editing software such as Photoshop CS3, selecting parts of your image and filling them with a solid, opaque color requires only a few simple steps.
Instructions
1
Open your photo in Photoshop CS3. Select "Open" from the File menu and choose the file that you would like to edit.
2
Use the Rectangular Marquee Tool to select the area you would like to fill with white color. If the area is a nonrectangular shape, use the Lasso Tool found in the tool panel on the left side of the window.
3
Choose "Edit > Fill." When prompted to specify the fill color, select White under Use from the drop-down menu. Select OK.
Alternatively, use the Eraser Tool in the tool panel to whiten specific areas of your photo. Modify the brush size and opacity to suit your preferences.
4
Use the Dodge Tool in the tool panel, if you would simply like to lighten areas of your image rather than whitening them entirely, to lighten highlights, midtones or shadows of a particular area.
How To Create A Black And White Photo While Keeping Some
Jan 04, 2007 This quick tutorial will show you how to make an object really stand out in your photos.. Watch Video about Adobe Photoshop,Shop,Tutorials by Metacafe.com
How to white out a background in GIMP tutorial - YouTube
www.youtube.com/watch?v=bc-1liTr0-E
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Night photography allows you to capture unique shots and apply effects that you could not achieve with daytime shots. Capturing city lights, bridges over water and the streaks of car lights passing by are a few examples. But there are certain points to keep in mind to ensure that your photographs will result in high-quality images fit for framing.
Manual Mode and Light Control
Overcome the biggest challenges of night photography by taking the camera off its automatic settings, starting with the automatic flash. Automatic mode is most usually reflected by the "P" setting on the dial positioned at the top of the camera and can be changed to manual mode simply by turning the dial to "M." Consult your camera's manual for settings and specific information pertaining to your model.
Digital single-lens reflex (DSLR) and traditional (film) SLR cameras set to automatic mode typically select a rapid shutter speed and produce results that are too dark. Maximize the amount of light entering the camera by adjusting the aperture (the opening inside the camera that expands and contracts to control the amount of light the film is exposed to) to its widest setting, which may be f/1.4 or f/2. The aperture is indicated by the f-number (such as f/8), and the shutter speed appears as a fraction of a second (such as 1/60). Opening the lens aperture to let in the most light can be accomplished by setting the camera to the lowest f-number. In manual mode you can adjust the shutter speed and aperture as desired; see your camera's manual for specific details on how to do this. Some cameras have two dials at the top of the camera; if so, one dial is used to adjust the aperture, and the other the shutter. Aperture and shutter values are displayed in the viewfinder or on the back of the camera for reference.
Shutter speeds will require experimenting with times. If you are using a DSLR, you can immediately gauge the effect of the shutter speed by viewing the resulting image. For example, a good rule of thumb is to start with a shutter speed of 1 second (indicated as 1") and increase or decrease this setting depending on how the shot appears. If the exposure is too bright, less light needs to be let into the camera, and you can try reducing the shutter speed.
If you are using an SLR, take several shots at different angles for each shutter speed setting. It is helpful to keep a log of your settings for each shot you take when using a film camera, so that you can see after developing the pictures which settings work best for you.
Keep in mind that ambient light plays a significant role in how much light is available for the exposure. Ambient light is any light coming in from the surroundings, such as artificial lights on buildings or bridges, moonlight, stop lights, or any other light in the area. Intentionally capturing streaks from passing cars or other moving lights can create interesting results and can be achieved from the vantage point of a footbridge or overpass crossing over a highway.
According to Gordon Laing, founder of DSLR Tips and editor of Camera Labs, if the sky is not completely dark, long exposure times can create the illusion of dawn or dusk. A good portion of the fun of night photography is in the experimentation, so don't be afraid to try different techniques and approaches.
Controlling Camera Shake
It is important to guard against camera shake by stabilizing the camera during the exposure. Since exposures are longer for night photography, this is an especially important consideration as concerns the quality of your image. Even if your camera has a built-in anti-shake device or optical stabilization, these will not be enough to stabilize the camera during long exposures.
Using a tripod is preferable, as it allows you to adjust the camera angle, but if you cannot get one, try finding a stable area to place your camera during the exposure. Camera shake caused by pressing the shutter button--a consideration even when using a tripod--can be avoided by using a self-timer or cable release accessory. Be sure to turn off optical stabilization or anti-shake when using a tripod or when stabilizing the camera, as these devices can cause camera shake that does not actually take place as they attempt to correct a nonexistent problem.
Night photography allows you to capture unique shots and apply effects that you could not achieve with daytime shots. Capturing city lights, bridges over water and the streaks of car lights passing by are a few examples. But there are certain points to keep in mind to ensure that your photographs will result in high-quality images fit for framing.
Overcome the biggest challenges of night photography by taking the camera off its automatic settings, starting with the automatic flash. Automatic mode is most usually reflected by the "P" setting on the dial positioned at the top of the camera and can be changed to manual mode simply by turning the dial to "M." Consult your camera's manual for settings and specific information pertaining to your model.
Digital single-lens reflex (DSLR) and traditional (film) SLR cameras set to automatic mode typically select a rapid shutter speed and produce results that are too dark. Maximize the amount of light entering the camera by adjusting the aperture (the opening inside the camera that expands and contracts to control the amount of light the film is exposed to) to its widest setting, which may be f/1.4 or f/2. The aperture is indicated by the f-number (such as f/8), and the shutter speed appears as a fraction of a second (such as 1/60). Opening the lens aperture to let in the most light can be accomplished by setting the camera to the lowest f-number. In manual mode you can adjust the shutter speed and aperture as desired; see your camera's manual for specific details on how to do this. Some cameras have two dials at the top of the camera; if so, one dial is used to adjust the aperture, and the other the shutter. Aperture and shutter values are displayed in the viewfinder or on the back of the camera for reference.
Shutter speeds will require experimenting with times. If you are using a DSLR, you can immediately gauge the effect of the shutter speed by viewing the resulting image. For example, a good rule of thumb is to start with a shutter speed of 1 second (indicated as 1") and increase or decrease this setting depending on how the shot appears. If the exposure is too bright, less light needs to be let into the camera, and you can try reducing the shutter speed.
If you are using an SLR, take several shots at different angles for each shutter speed setting. It is helpful to keep a log of your settings for each shot you take when using a film camera, so that you can see after developing the pictures which settings work best for you.
Keep in mind that ambient light plays a significant role in how much light is available for the exposure. Ambient light is any light coming in from the surroundings, such as artificial lights on buildings or bridges, moonlight, stop lights, or any other light in the area. Intentionally capturing streaks from passing cars or other moving lights can create interesting results and can be achieved from the vantage point of a footbridge or overpass crossing over a highway.
According to Gordon Laing, founder of DSLR Tips and editor of Camera Labs, if the sky is not completely dark, long exposure times can create the illusion of dawn or dusk. A good portion of the fun of night photography is in the experimentation, so don't be afraid to try different techniques and approaches.
Controlling Camera Shake
It is important to guard against camera shake by stabilizing the camera during the exposure. Since exposures are longer for night photography, this is an especially important consideration as concerns the quality of your image. Even if your camera has a built-in anti-shake device or optical stabilization, these will not be enough to stabilize the camera during long exposures.
Using a tripod is preferable, as it allows you to adjust the camera angle, but if you cannot get one, try finding a stable area to place your camera during the exposure. Camera shake caused by pressing the shutter button--a consideration even when using a tripod--can be avoided by using a self-timer or cable release accessory. Be sure to turn off optical stabilization or anti-shake when using a tripod or when stabilizing the camera, as these devices can cause camera shake that does not actually take place as they attempt to correct a nonexistent problem.
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Five years ago, my husband Jon and I were on a slow, diligent, 6-month hunt for the perfect DSLR, even though we hardly knew what qualified a DSLR to be perfect.
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When your photography hobby becomes something more than a hobby, youll need to set up a darkroom. Of course you can also build a darkroom if you only do your photography a few times a month, but would rather develop the film yourself instead of trusting it to a lab. Building your own darkroom is fairly easy as long as you use the right equipment. To get started, make sure you have everything youll need and pick a spot.
Instructions
1
Decide on a place where you want your darkroom to be or pick a location. Remember that the room must be dark and you need to have the doors and windows blacked out because even the slightest amount of light can ruin the development of your pictures.
2
Purchase dark pieces of velvet fabric from your craft store or fabric store to hang over any windows and doors. This is an easy alternative to those expensive blackout shades sold in photography supply stores. As long as the fabric panels are as wide as your openings and long enough to reach the bottom of the opening, youll be all set.
3
Set up a system for others in the area so they know where youre in your darkroom. An elaborate lighting system is one way, while others might prefer to hang a sign on the outside of the door that says do not enter or safe to enter.
4
Design your wet area and dry area, making sure to leave enough space between the two areas so you can safely walk around without bumping into anything. In your wet side youll need pans for the developer, stop, fix and wash solutions. The dry side should contain your dryer, enlarger, timer and anything else you need.
5
Hang one of your velvet fabric panels over the door leading into the darkroom. Youll want the fabric to easily move when you walk into the room, but still be able to push the fabric back in place to hide the light. You might find it helpful to hammer nails into the fabric to keep it in place.
When your photography hobby becomes something more than a hobby, youll need to set up a darkroom. Of course you can also build a darkroom if you only do your photography a few times a month, but would rather develop the film yourself instead of trusting it to a lab. Building your own darkroom is fairly easy as long as you use the right equipment. To get started, make sure you have everything youll need and pick a spot.
Instructions
1
Decide on a place where you want your darkroom to be or pick a location. Remember that the room must be dark and you need to have the doors and windows blacked out because even the slightest amount of light can ruin the development of your pictures.
2
Purchase dark pieces of velvet fabric from your craft store or fabric store to hang over any windows and doors.
. This is an easy alternative to those expensive blackout shades sold in photography supply stores. As long as the fabric panels are as wide as your openings and long enough to reach the bottom of the opening, youll be all set. 3
Set up a system for others in the area so they know where youre in your darkroom. An elaborate lighting system is one way, while others might prefer to hang a sign on the outside of the door that says do not enter or safe to enter.
4
Design your wet area and dry area, making sure to leave enough space between the two areas so you can safely walk around without bumping into anything. In your wet side youll need pans for the developer, stop, fix and wash solutions. The dry side should contain your dryer, enlarger, timer and anything else you need.
5
Hang one of your velvet fabric panels over the door leading into the darkroom. Youll want the fabric to easily move when you walk into the room, but still be able to push the fabric back in place to hide the light. You might find it helpful to hammer nails into the fabric to keep it in place.
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Even if she was using a good camera in picture number 2 and a wide angle one from her phone in picture number 1 the object is not matching the beamer lens throw.
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Natural light can enhance skin tones and natural objects and provide powerful, dramatic lighting without the need for special equipment or a power source. The easiest and most available source of natural light is, of course, the sun.
Instructions
1
Decide whether you want a subtle or dramatic lighting effect. Subtle, natural lighting, known as soft lighting, will produce fewer pronounced shadows, be more flattering to skin tones and give an overall even lighting of your subject. Dramatic lighting, usually known as hard lighting, will produce high contrast, with bright spots on the sunlit side of your subject and deep shadows on the other side. For the most dramatic lighting, create a silhouette, in which your subject is a shadow against the bright light of the sun.
2
For soft lighting, shoot your photo in the early morning, in the late afternoon before sunset, on an overcast day or on a bright day in the shade to minimize the shadows and lines. For soft lighting, the sun should be behind the camera.
3
Hard lighting can be achieved best on a bright, sunny day, during the afternoon, when the sun is high in the sky and shining strongly on the subject. If you want to create particularly striking shadows, sidelight your subject--have your subject stand with his side to the sun. For even more drama, place your subject in a darkened area where sunlight is streaming through at a single point, such as in a dim room near a window or door.
4
Achieve a silhouette by back-lighting your subject during a bright part of the day, preferably when the sun is on a strong angle. Back-lighting is when the light is shining toward the camera from behind your subject, darkening the subject to a shadowy figure in the bright light. You will lose distinguishing features, but back-lighting can create a powerful effect.
5
Use reflected light to even out shadows by propping up--or having someone hold--a piece of white poster board in front of and slightly below your subject. Make sure it is out of the frame. Manipulate the poster board until it reflects light back at your subject, softening the lines and filling in some of the shadows. For an even lighting effect with soft lighting, use two poster boards--one on each side of your subject, placed between the subject and the camera.
6
Use a fill light as a second light source that fills in shadowy areas, such as beneath the ridge of the eye, under the nose and under the chin in a portrait. Your flash can make a good fill light, though you can use any type of electric light source with varying results. Experiment with using a fill light, as well as with reflecting your fill light with poster board. With practice, you can learn to manipulate sunlight to achieve many different effects and create the look you desire.
Natural light can enhance skin tones and natural objects and provide powerful, dramatic lighting without the need for special equipment or a power source. The easiest and most available source of natural light is, of course, the sun.
Instructions
1
Decide whether you want a subtle or dramatic lighting effect. Subtle, natural lighting, known as soft lighting, will produce fewer pronounced shadows, be more flattering to skin tones and give an overall even lighting of your subject. Dramatic lighting, usually known as hard lighting, will produce high contrast, with bright spots on the sunlit side of your subject and deep shadows on the other side. For the most dramatic lighting, create a silhouette, in which your subject is a shadow against the bright light of the sun.
2
For soft lighting, shoot your photo in the early morning, in the late afternoon before sunset, on an overcast day or on a bright day in the shade to minimize the shadows and lines. For soft lighting, the sun should be behind the camera.
3
Hard lighting can be achieved best on a bright, sunny day, during the afternoon, when the sun is high in the sky and shining strongly on the subject. If you want to create particularly striking shadows, sidelight your subject--have your subject stand with his side to the sun.
. For even more drama, place your subject in a darkened area where sunlight is streaming through at a single point, such as in a dim room near a window or door. 4
Achieve a silhouette by back-lighting your subject during a bright part of the day, preferably when the sun is on a strong angle. Back-lighting is when the light is shining toward the camera from behind your subject, darkening the subject to a shadowy figure in the bright light. You will lose distinguishing features, but back-lighting can create a powerful effect.
5
Use reflected light to even out shadows by propping up--or having someone hold--a piece of white poster board in front of and slightly below your subject. Make sure it is out of the frame. Manipulate the poster board until it reflects light back at your subject, softening the lines and filling in some of the shadows. For an even lighting effect with soft lighting, use two poster boards--one on each side of your subject, placed between the subject and the camera.
6
Use a fill light as a second light source that fills in shadowy areas, such as beneath the ridge of the eye, under the nose and under the chin in a portrait. Your flash can make a good fill light, though you can use any type of electric light source with varying results. Experiment with using a fill light, as well as with reflecting your fill light with poster board. With practice, you can learn to manipulate sunlight to achieve many different effects and create the look you desire.
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