Shadow shapes or silhouettes create striking photographs when done correctly. Silhouettes are fairly easy to capture with lighting equipment commonly found in a photo studio. The main formula behind creating a silhouette is using backlighting. You have options as to which types of lights you can use and whether a backdrop is necessary. Digital cameras take the guesswork out of this process, but with the right steps, film can be effectively used with minimal error.
Instructions
- 1
Choose a subject with a distinct shape. Overlapping multiple subjects can appear too bulky and may cause confusion. Because the subject will be in shadow, no color or internal details will be visible, so the shape must be strong or recognizable. Think creatively about negative space when composing in order to make the white space look just as interesting as your shadow.
2Use a softbox if it is available and works with your composition. Some softboxes are very large, so you may be able to fit your subject within the confines of the box and keep its edges out of the photograph. If you have a small subject or are cropping your image with a long lens, this type of light works well.
3Try photofloods and a light-colored backdrop if a softbox is not available. With an opaque white backdrop, point two photoflood lights at the backdrop at about 45-degree angles. If the backdrop is translucent, try placing the lights behind it, but out of direct view of the composition. Experiment with the angle of the lights to create the most even light and as bright a light as possible.
4Take a meter reading off of your background, not your subject, to create a silhouette. Because of the amount of light being reflected directly towards the camera, following your light meter's initial reading will likely already begin to cast your subject into shadow. This may not be the case, however, if your meter is center-weighted and your subject occupies much of the center of the composition. With a digital camera you can preview your results and make adjustments on the side of the underexposure that will create shadow shapes.
5Take care to meter definitely from the background light if you are using film. Previewing the lighting with a separate camera loaded with Polaroid film can save you on regular film in the long run. Bracketing on the side of underexposure is highly recommended.
Shadow shapes or silhouettes create striking photographs when done correctly. Silhouettes are fairly easy to capture with lighting equipment commonly found in a photo studio. The main formula behind creating a silhouette is using backlighting. You have options as to which types of lights you can use and whether a backdrop is necessary. Digital cameras take the guesswork out of this process, but with the right steps, film can be effectively used with minimal error.
Instructions
- 1
Choose a subject with a distinct shape. Overlapping multiple subjects can appear too bulky and may cause confusion. Because the subject will be in shadow, no color or internal details will be visible, so the shape must be strong or recognizable. Think creatively about negative space when composing in order to make the white space look just as interesting as your shadow.
2Use a softbox if it is available and works with your composition. Some softboxes are very large, so you may be able to fit your subject within the confines of the box and keep its edges out of the photograph. If you have a small subject or are cropping your image with a long lens, this type of light works well.
3Try photofloods and a light-colored backdrop if a softbox is not available. With an opaque white backdrop, point two photoflood lights at the backdrop at about 45-degree angles. If the backdrop is translucent, try placing the lights behind it, but out of direct view of the composition. Experiment with the angle of the lights to create the most even light and as bright a light as possible.
4Take a meter reading off of your background, not your subject, to create a silhouette. Because of the amount of light being reflected directly towards the camera, following your light meter's initial reading will likely already begin to cast your subject into shadow. This may not be the case, however, if your meter is center-weighted and your subject occupies much of the center of the composition. With a digital camera you can preview your results and make adjustments on the side of the underexposure that will create shadow shapes.
5Take care to meter definitely from the background light if you are using film. Previewing the lighting with a separate camera loaded with Polaroid film can save you on regular film in the long run. Bracketing on the side of underexposure is highly recommended.
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