Camera film can be developed at home if a light-tight space is available and if the film is a black-and-white D-76 process. Color film, or black-and-white film made for the C-41 process, is best left to a lab. A chemical darkroom is necessary to make silver gelatin prints from the negatives. A room with good ventilation, amber darkroom lights and running water completes the process.
Instructions
Developing the Film
- 1
Use the can opener to pry off the lid and remove the film from the canister. Cut off the film's leader with scissors, insert it into the reel and twist the reel until the film is loaded. Put the reel into the tank with the column in place and top off with the funnel. This must be done in complete darkness; once the funnel is in place, the tank can be exposed to light.
2Rinse the film with a water bath for 30 seconds and discard the water. Based on the temperature, dilution, type of developer and type of film, set a timer for the exact time in minutes and seconds to develop the film. This can range anywhere from six to 14 minutes. Agitate the tank constantly for the first 30 seconds, then agitate for five seconds every 30 seconds until the time is up. Pour the developer down the drain and rinse with water for 30 seconds.
3Fix the film for the fixer chemical's recommended time. This is usually no longer than five minutes. Agitate the tank for the first full minute, then for five seconds once every minute until the time is up. Fixer should be collected in a jug for proper disposal rather than being poured down the drain. Rinse with water for 30 seconds.
4Use hypoclear for its recommended time, usually about two minutes. Agitation should be constant. Pour the hypoclear down the drain when finished.
5Wash the film in running water for five minutes. Remove it from the reel and let it dry overnight in a protective bag or area where it will not encounter dust.
Making Silver Gelatin Prints
- 6
Cut the film into strips no shorter than three frames, preferably five. Load the film into a carrier upside down with the glossy side up to a single image frame.
7Turn your enlarger's timer to "Focus" to see the image projected onto your easel. Adjust the height of the enlarger for the image size. Turn the focus knob to sharpen the image. When satisfied, turn the timer to "Print," and the light goes off.
8Set the enlarger's aperture to f/11 as a starting point. If you cannot see aperture numbers, click the aperture ring to get an average amount of light of the choices possible.
9Place photographic paper into the easel and set the timer for your determined time. This should be between 10 and 20 seconds. Test prints are necessary to figure out the best time for your type of paper and enlarger settings. Press the start button and the timer turns on the enlarger light for the set time.
10Process the print in the developer, stop bath and fixer according to chemicals' instructions. These times are usually 90 seconds, 30 seconds and two minutes, respectively. Wash the print in running water for five minutes and hang to dry.
Camera film can be developed at home if a light-tight space is available and if the film is a black-and-white D-76 process. Color film, or black-and-white film made for the C-41 process, is best left to a lab. A chemical darkroom is necessary to make silver gelatin prints from the negatives. A room with good ventilation, amber darkroom lights and running water completes the process.
Instructions
Developing the Film
- 1
Use the can opener to pry off the lid and remove the film from the canister. Cut off the film's leader with scissors, insert it into the reel and twist the reel until the film is loaded. Put the reel into the tank with the column in place and top off with the funnel. This must be done in complete darkness; once the funnel is in place, the tank can be exposed to light.
2Rinse the film with a water bath for 30 seconds and discard the water. Based on the temperature, dilution, type of developer and type of film, set a timer for the exact time in minutes and seconds to develop the film. This can range anywhere from six to 14 minutes. Agitate the tank constantly for the first 30 seconds, then agitate for five seconds every 30 seconds until the time is up. Pour the developer down the drain and rinse with water for 30 seconds.
3Fix the film for the fixer chemical's recommended time. This is usually no longer than five minutes. Agitate the tank for the first full minute, then for five seconds once every minute until the time is up. Fixer should be collected in a jug for proper disposal rather than being poured down the drain. Rinse with water for 30 seconds.
4Use hypoclear for its recommended time, usually about two minutes. Agitation should be constant. Pour the hypoclear down the drain when finished.
5Wash the film in running water for five minutes. Remove it from the reel and let it dry overnight in a protective bag or area where it will not encounter dust.
Making Silver Gelatin Prints
- 6
Cut the film into strips no shorter than three frames, preferably five. Load the film into a carrier upside down with the glossy side up to a single image frame.
7Turn your enlarger's timer to "Focus" to see the image projected onto your easel. Adjust the height of the enlarger for the image size. Turn the focus knob to sharpen the image. When satisfied, turn the timer to "Print," and the light goes off.
8Set the enlarger's aperture to f/11 as a starting point. If you cannot see aperture numbers, click the aperture ring to get an average amount of light of the choices possible.
9Place photographic paper into the easel and set the timer for your determined time. This should be between 10 and 20 seconds. Test prints are necessary to figure out the best time for your type of paper and enlarger settings. Press the start button and the timer turns on the enlarger light for the set time.
10Process the print in the developer, stop bath and fixer according to chemicals' instructions. These times are usually 90 seconds, 30 seconds and two minutes, respectively. Wash the print in running water for five minutes and hang to dry.
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