Lighting is one of the trickiest things to tame when it comes to photography. Natural lighting is preferred to synthetic lighting as it does not add unwanted pigments. However when natural lighting is unavailable, it is possible to recreate it using tools to diffuse the light. There are many setups one can take, but above all the trick is the necessity of knowing your camera inside and out.
Light Boxes
Light boxes are used mostly for studio setups requiring small spaces. The purpose of a light box is to ensure that "natural lighting" is spread throughout the space in front of the lens, unintended shadows are one of the biggest giveaways of amateur photography. Incandescent lighting and flash bulbs can ruin the colors of the photo. Instead of adding light, light boxes utilize the light that is already present to your advantage.
There are many ways you can create a light box; virtually anything goes as long as the box has a roof, 3 sides, is white, and is large enough to fit the subject object inside. You can use any material you have on hand, though make sure if using paper that it is thin enough to let light through. Only use white in a light box as it allows light to bounce without reflecting colors.
You can use a light box in situations where there is too much light, as it will diffuse harsh light (such as sunlight) or in situations when you do not have enough light. When you don't have enough light, use an additional light set up against the box to force light inside. Once the light is in, it will bounce around and light your object evenly.
Sheets and Boards
For situations that are too large to fit inside of a box, you are going to need to either set up your own way to concentrate the light, or use a space that performs the same effect (such as an empty room with white walls and large windows). If setting up a sheet, either drape it across two tall objects, or pin it against the wall. You may wish to add wings (side screens) to capture more light and evenly disperse it onto the object. Boards can be set up as well in the same fashion as sheets, however as with sheets remember to use white.
Light Diffusers
Nothing ruins a photo more than harsh lighting and flash bulb whiteout. You need to soften direct lighting by diffusing it. Light boxes and screens are ways to diffuse, but if you use neither, there are still ways to keep the light out.
If you are using direct light through a window, try taping white parchment paper onto the window to make the light opaque and evenly dispersed. Sheets work for this matter as well. If you are using an accessory light, bouncing it off of something and then onto the subject will ensure that you have less shadows and less chance of whiteout. Screens, large white pieces of paper, or even a white postal ox work to set up near the object and shine the light on. This will provide that soft "glow" that many studio photographers rely on.
Get to Know Your Camera
The biggest tip in understanding lighting is to get to know your camera. Digital cameras especially are equipped with settings to change lighting that otherwise could have only been achieved with lens filters. White balance is the most critical feature when it comes to digital manual photography; changing the white balance on your camera will completely alter how your camera receives the available light. And remember that no matter how intricate your lighting setup, the photo is only as good as the photographer. You must have the proper film speed, aperture and f-stop set in order to fully tame photography light.
Lighting is one of the trickiest things to tame when it comes to photography. Natural lighting is preferred to synthetic lighting as it does not add unwanted pigments. However when natural lighting is unavailable, it is possible to recreate it using tools to diffuse the light. There are many setups one can take, but above all the trick is the necessity of knowing your camera inside and out.
Light Boxes
Light boxes are used mostly for studio setups requiring small spaces. The purpose of a light box is to ensure that "natural lighting" is spread throughout the space in front of the lens, unintended shadows are one of the biggest giveaways of amateur photography. Incandescent lighting and flash bulbs can ruin the colors of the photo. Instead of adding light, light boxes utilize the light that is already present to your advantage.
There are many ways you can create a light box; virtually anything goes as long as the box has a roof, 3 sides, is white, and is large enough to fit the subject object inside. You can use any material you have on hand, though make sure if using paper that it is thin enough to let light through. Only use white in a light box as it allows light to bounce without reflecting colors.
You can use a light box in situations where there is too much light, as it will diffuse harsh light (such as sunlight) or in situations when you do not have enough light. When you don't have enough light, use an additional light set up against the box to force light inside. Once the light is in, it will bounce around and light your object evenly.
Sheets and Boards
For situations that are too large to fit inside of a box, you are going to need to either set up your own way to concentrate the light, or use a space that performs the same effect (such as an empty room with white walls and large windows). If setting up a sheet, either drape it across two tall objects, or pin it against the wall.
Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques
. You may wish to add wings (side screens) to capture more light and evenly disperse it onto the object. Boards can be set up as well in the same fashion as sheets, however as with sheets remember to use white.Light Diffusers
Nothing ruins a photo more than harsh lighting and flash bulb whiteout. You need to soften direct lighting by diffusing it. Light boxes and screens are ways to diffuse, but if you use neither, there are still ways to keep the light out.
If you are using direct light through a window, try taping white parchment paper onto the window to make the light opaque and evenly dispersed. Sheets work for this matter as well. If you are using an accessory light, bouncing it off of something and then onto the subject will ensure that you have less shadows and less chance of whiteout. Screens, large white pieces of paper, or even a white postal ox work to set up near the object and shine the light on. This will provide that soft "glow" that many studio photographers rely on.
Get to Know Your Camera
The biggest tip in understanding lighting is to get to know your camera. Digital cameras especially are equipped with settings to change lighting that otherwise could have only been achieved with lens filters. White balance is the most critical feature when it comes to digital manual photography; changing the white balance on your camera will completely alter how your camera receives the available light. And remember that no matter how intricate your lighting setup, the photo is only as good as the photographer. You must have the proper film speed, aperture and f-stop set in order to fully tame photography light.
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