The sky provided the only light a photographer could use when the medium was invented in the 1800s, and it wasn't long before the sky itself became a subject. Clouds, sunsets and unusual weather remain sources of striking images, yet the sky presents some unique challenges as a "model." Without taking into account these peculiar aspects, photographs of the sky may be disappointing.
Instructions
- 1
Consider the exposure of the sky. Light meters, both hand-held and in-camera, are designed to evaluate a scene and recommend a shutter speed and aperture combination that will produce a result that is the tonal equivalent to 18% grey, often called "middle" grey. A sample of middle grey is included in the Resources section. The sky may not have this value, so without compensation, you may not get the results you expect. Clouds may disappear or lack detail (overexposure), or the scene overall may be too dark (underexposure). Use your camera's exposure compensation feature or manual settings to make the appropriate change.
2Add a polarizing filter if you want to add richness to a blue sky. Polarized light is affected only off the sun's axis, that is, when it is to your right or left as you face your subject. The blue sky will darken and contrast between clouds will increase.
3Add a graduated grey filter to add a smooth transition of tone. The filter will darken the upper portion of the sky in a way that can look natural in a finished print. Adjust the aperture setting to experiment with the amount and transition of the effect.
4Use a yellow or red filter if you are shooting black-and-white images. These colors block light in the blue spectrum, so a blue sky will appear darker, dramatically so with a red filter. Clouds will pop out in contrast. Some cameras with through-the-lens meter and focus systems may not work through a red filter, but should handle a yellow filter with little difficulty.
The sky provided the only light a photographer could use when the medium was invented in the 1800s, and it wasn't long before the sky itself became a subject. Clouds, sunsets and unusual weather remain sources of striking images, yet the sky presents some unique challenges as a "model." Without taking into account these peculiar aspects, photographs of the sky may be disappointing.
Instructions
- 1
Consider the exposure of the sky. Light meters, both hand-held and in-camera, are designed to evaluate a scene and recommend a shutter speed and aperture combination that will produce a result that is the tonal equivalent to 18% grey, often called "middle" grey. A sample of middle grey is included in the Resources section. The sky may not have this value, so without compensation, you may not get the results you expect. Clouds may disappear or lack detail (overexposure), or the scene overall may be too dark (underexposure). Use your camera's exposure compensation feature or manual settings to make the appropriate change.
2Add a polarizing filter if you want to add richness to a blue sky. Polarized light is affected only off the sun's axis, that is, when it is to your right or left as you face your subject. The blue sky will darken and contrast between clouds will increase.
3Add a graduated grey filter to add a smooth transition of tone. The filter will darken the upper portion of the sky in a way that can look natural in a finished print. Adjust the aperture setting to experiment with the amount and transition of the effect.
4Use a yellow or red filter if you are shooting black-and-white images. These colors block light in the blue spectrum, so a blue sky will appear darker, dramatically so with a red filter. Clouds will pop out in contrast. Some cameras with through-the-lens meter and focus systems may not work through a red filter, but should handle a yellow filter with little difficulty.
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